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New in Function (page 1 of 51)
May 06, 2013 | 01:17 PM CDT
Mature and Immature Corneocyte Detection Force Distance Curves vs. Microfluorometry
By: Anthony J. Ribaudo, Textile Research Institute…
Here, the author compares two methods to determine the maturity of corneocytes based on their cross-linking that could be used to evaluate the anti-aging effects of molecular agents. The first utilizes microfluorometry, while the second involves F-D curves generated via contact mode AFM. Both methods successfully detected differences in mature or immature corneocytes with 95% confidence.
May 06, 2013 | 12:15 PM CDT
Nonaqueous Emulsions: History and Current Specialized Applications
By: Paul Thau PacarTech, Berkeley Heights, NJ
Since the early 1980s, nonaqueous emulsions have attracted technical interest as potential vehicles and delivery systems for personal care products. This is due to the development of a broad range of silicone-based emulsifiers, silicone polymers and other polymeric emulsifiers that have enabled their use. This article will briefly review their history and evolution into current-day specialized applications.
May 06, 2013 | 12:11 PM CDT
Titanium Dioxide Particle vs. Sun Protection Performance
By: S. Wiechers, PhD; P. Biehl; C. Luven; M. Maier…
The article compares the performance of titanium dioxide as a UV filter in cosmetic formulations as a function of its primary particle size. It was found that with increasing primary particle size, even below 100 nm, the effectiveness of the inorganic (mineral) UV filter was clearly reduced.
May 06, 2013 | 12:04 PM CDT
Formulating with Naturals—Anti-aging Actives
By: Art Georgalas, Georgalas Endeavors
To provide consumers an anti-aging benefit, finished products and ingredients must ameliorate both firmness and lines and wrinkles. The loss of firmness, attributed primarily to the loss of underlying dermal support, is both a sign of skin aging and a cause of most lines and wrinkles. Thus, improving this underlying matrix to enhance skin’s appearance should be a key feature of anti-aging product performance.
May 02, 2013 | 01:37 PM CDT
Sun Care Use: Beach Survey
By: Dennis Lott , Florida Suncare Testing Inc.
In September 2012, 101 sun care product users were surveyed on the beach regarding what SPF and product form(s) they were using, among other questions. While 12.2% used SPFs of 15–29, a 58% majority used SPFs of 30–50. Lotions were the favored form, followed by sprays. This article reports the detailed findings from this survey.
Apr 04, 2013 | 03:44 PM CDT
Regulatory Review—Titanium Dioxide
By: David C. Steinberg, Steinberg & Associates
This column will discuss titanium dioxide (TiO2). TiO2 is the most frequently used ingredient in cosmetics after water (aqua), fragrance (parfum), methylparaben, propylparaben, glycerin and propylene glycol, according to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration’s (FDA) Voluntary Cosmetic Registration Program.
Apr 04, 2013 | 02:56 PM CDT
Culture Shift: Rethinking the Role of Commensal Microflora of the Skin in Cosmetic Formulation
By: Kelly A. Dobos, Kao USA Inc.
Much like bacteria in the gut, the skin’s microbiome plays an important role in skin health by excluding harmful transients and educating the immune system. The application of pre- and probiotic concepts in cosmetics presents a novel approach. While formulation with probiotics may pose challenges, the use of prebiotics and bacterial lysates, discussed here, may be a viable alternative.
Apr 02, 2013 | 08:57 AM CDT
Characterizing the Anti-aging Effects of Hesperomeles heterophylla Hook Leaf Extract
By: Tania Milena Cortázar, Mauricio Guzmán Alonso …
Hesperomeles heterophylla Hook leaf extract was evaluated as described here for its application in anti-aging skin care. This traditional extract exhibited antioxidant and protective properties on the extracellular matrix due to high levels of polyphenols and flavonoids. Further, a formulation containing 0.35% extract was tested in vivo and showed promising effects on wrinkles and skin elasticity.
Apr 01, 2013 | 02:22 PM CDT
PEG-2 Caprylylamine: A New Adjuvant Surfactant to Boost Lather Rate
By: Shou Ooshida, Kawaken Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.
PEG-2 caprylylamine, when used as an adjuvant surfactant formulated in a basic cleanser, can significantly increase lathering rate, as sensory evaluations, dynamic and static surface tension measurements, and the Ross-Miles method show here. Mechanisms of action for this new field of research also are discussed.
Apr 01, 2013 | 10:22 AM CDT
Sustainable Ingredient Science: Brown Algae
By: Giorgio Dell'Acqua, PhD, Freedom Actives Corp.
Sea-harvested brown algae is known to have skin benefits and previously has been associated with an increase in skin elasticity. Fucoidan, found in brown macroalgae such as Undaria pinnatifida, is a unique marine ingredient. It is a sulfated, fucose-rich polymer that in nature, protects the seaweed against a range of external stresses, including UV radiation and environmental contaminants such as marine-borne pathogens and viruses.