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New in Function (page 1 of 53)
Nov 04, 2013 | 02:43 PM CST
Glycolic Acid No Longer Just for Skin—Changing the Internal Properties of Hair
By: Trefor A. Evans, TA Evans LLC; and Jennifer M.…
As the smallest alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), glycolic acid is frequently found in anti-aging products due to its ability to penetrate skin and reduce wrinkles, acne scarring, hyperpigmentation and other conditions. This work describes how it is also able to penetrate into hair and, in doing so, bring about a number of changes to the internal fiber properties.
Oct 08, 2013 | 11:52 AM CDT
Swellable, Nanoporous Organosilica for Extended and Triggered Release
By: Paul L. Edmiston, PhD, ABS Materials Inc.
Nanoporous organosilica particles were developed to swell upon the addition of organic solvents. These are evaluated here for encapsulating and controlling the release of fragrance. Slower, continuous release was observed, suggesting their ability to extend sensory benefits. In addition, the stimulated release of encapsulated lidocaine was studied, and results implicate their use to deliver cosmetic actives.
Oct 08, 2013 | 11:50 AM CDT
Delivering High Moisturization from Lipstick
By: Cicely Sara Quintana Seguil, Belcorp
To improve the appearance of dry and wrinkled lips, it is necessary to hydrate them. Here, the author describes a lipstick concept to meet this need and a formulation process to achieve it. The product was then tested for immediate and long-lasting moisturization using a corneometer, and a quantitative study was conducted to rate its usability.
Oct 08, 2013 | 11:48 AM CDT
Hydrophobic α-Ketoglutarate for Increased Collagen Production
By: Ilona Matejková, Pavel Klein, Martin Pravda, R…
A novel mechanism to increase collagen production based on improved hydroxylation of the collagen fiber is described here. In relation, the effects of a hydrophobic derivative of a-ketoglutarate on this mechanism are examined, and results indicate increases in collagen production in senescent fibroblasts in vitro. In vivo, a significant reduction in wrinkles and improvement in elasticity were observed.
Oct 08, 2013 | 11:46 AM CDT
Viscosity, Dispersion and More in Mascara
By: Peter Tsolis,The Estée Lauder Companies; and A…
Cosmetic formulators are constantly challenged to develop products for daily use, and mascaras in particular are one of the most researched (and scrutinized) products a woman can purchase. Scientists must go to great lengths to ensure this miracle product delivers on the eyelash benefits it advertises.
Oct 08, 2013 | 11:45 AM CDT
The Effect of Glycerol on the Water-holding Capacity of Chemically Irritated Skin*
By: Howard I. Maibach, MD, University of Californi…
Glycerol is one humectant commonly employed due to its high hygroscopic and hyperosmotic properties. It is used in cosmetics as a moisturizer and in pharmaceutical formulations as an active compound.2 Being naturally present in the skin, glycerol was quickly identified for its role in skin hydration, similar to natural moisturizing factors (NMF).
Oct 08, 2013 | 11:43 AM CDT
Plant Cell Technology
By: Giorgio Dell'Acqua, PhD
While plant stem cells initially were marketed for their technological potential, they recently have been identified as an alternative, sustainable mean to produce nature-derived extracts and molecules.
Sep 13, 2013 | 02:05 PM CDT
Effect of Perfumes on the Viscosity of Surfactant Systems
By: D.R. Munden, Quest International Ltd.
It is well-known that perfumes can affect the viscosity of bubble bath or shampoo formulations. Usually they have a thinning effect, but they can also cause a viscosity increase. The effect and its magnitude will vary with perfume type and also with the product formulation. Small changes in the latter can cause large changes in a perfume's effect on the viscosity.
Sep 03, 2013 | 02:26 PM CDT
The Latest in Whitening Agents
By: Howard I. Maibach, MD; and Michal W.S. Ong
In recent years, new agents, especially from plants, have been discovered and extracted to test for their depigmenting effects in vitro and in vivo. This article reviews these most recent skin whitening agents of interest, whose efficacy, mechanism and safety have been tested.
Sep 03, 2013 | 02:20 PM CDT
Peptidomimetics for Cosmetic Applications
By: Steven Isaacman, PhD, Nanometics LLC; Michael …
Peptidomimetics, or synthetic bioactive peptides, have been developed that mimic the biological functions of peptides and proteins but overcome many of these challenges and limitations. Further, due to their wide range of activity, synthetic feasibility and ease of handling, they have played a vital part in biological research. This column will discuss the potential application of these short chain oligomers in cosmetics and personal care.