Deciphering Sun Damage Prevention and Repair Formulas

Mar 1, 2011 | Contact Author | By: Eric S. Abruyn, TPC2 Advisors Ltd., Inc.
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Title: Deciphering Sun Damage Prevention and Repair Formulas
sun damagex sun repairx sunscreenx vitamin Dx UVBx UVAx sun carex
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Keywords: sun damage | sun repair | sunscreen | vitamin D | UVB | UVA | sun care

Abstract: It is obvious that UVA and UVB radiation damage human skin. Therefore, the question of whether UV damaged skin can be adequately repaired remains to be answered.

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E Abrutyn, Deciphering Sun Damage Prevention and Repair Formulas, Cosmet & Toil 126(3) 142 (2011)

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The importance of sun protection is known in today’s society better than it was in earlier decades. Specifically, the importance of protecting skin from both UVB radiation (290–320 nm), since it can cause severe sunburn damage and cancer, and UVA radiation (320–400 nm), which penetrates deeper into skin and produces reactive oxygen species (ROS) that can cause DNA, cell and tissue damage, is well-known. UVA is also noted to induce immune suppression, leading to the development of malignant melanoma and squamous tumors, along with photosensitivity, photodermatoses, photoallergies and the loss skin elasticity—which can lead to an increase in wrinkles.

In 1983, L. Kligman wrote about damage to the human dermis caused by chronic UV radiation.1 In this study, researchers exposed hairless mice to UV radiation and found that repair can occur if the skin is protected with sunscreens that provide UVB protection with an SPF of 6 and 15, in addition to UVA protection. Repair was found to occur in situ in severely damaged skin in the subepidermal reconstruction zones of new connective tissue, with parallel collagen bundles and a network of fine elastic fibers.

Gilchrest also provided a review of UV radiation damage and clinical repair.2 According to his review, skin loses elasticity and its metabolic activity slows with age. UV radiation exposure causes thickening of the epidermis and increased melanogenesis.

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Table 1. DermaSel Spa Totes Meer Maske After Sun-Repair

DermaSel Spa Totes Meer Maske After Sun-Repair

This mask, shown in Figure 1, is formulated with an active ingredient complexa comprised of butylene glycol, acetyl tyrosine, proline, hydrogenated vegetable protein and adenosine triphosphate to support natural skin regeneration.

Table 2. 3Lab Perfect “C” Treatment Serum

3Lab Perfect “C” Treatment Serum

This serum, shown in Figure 2, is said to tone and firm the skin while nourishing and repairing damaged skin cells. It is formulated with sodium ascorbyl phosphateb; ascorbyl glucoside, a vitamin C derivative said to extend the effectiveness of the serum; and apple stem cell technology to help promote healthy cells and delay the look of aging.

Table 2 (cont.) 3Lab Perfect “C” Treatment Serum

3Lab Perfect “C” Treatment Serum (cont.)

This serum, shown in Figure 2, is said to tone and firm the skin while nourishing and repairing damaged skin cells. It is formulated with sodium ascorbyl phosphateb; ascorbyl glucoside, a vitamin C derivative said to extend the effectiveness of the serum; and apple stem cell technology to help promote healthy cells and delay the look of aging.

Table 3. H2O+ Spa Body Soother Solar Relief Gel

H2O+ Spa Body Soother Solar Relief Gel

This gel, shown in Figure 3, contains a combination of aloe vera, hydrating marine extracts, sea fennel, wakame, nori, spirulina, vitamins A, C and E, and provitamin B to provide antioxidant, reparative, anti-aging, hydrating and cooling properties for skin that has been exposed to the sun.

Table 4. DERMAdoctor Photodynamic Therapy Sunlight-Activated Laser Lotion SPF 30

DERMAdoctor Photodynamic Therapy Sunlight-Activated Laser Lotion SPF 30

This photo rejuvenating, solar-powered lotion, shown in Figure 4, reportedly captures UV light and transforms it into visible red light, a proven energy source for eliciting anti-aging effects on the skin.

Figure 1. DermaSel Spa Totes Meer Maske After Sun-Repair

Figure 1. DermaSel Spa Totes Meer Maske After Sun-Repair

This mask, shown in Figure 1, is formulated with an active ingredient complexa comprised of butylene glycol, acetyl tyrosine, proline, hydrogenated vegetable protein and adenosine triphosphate to support natural skin regeneration.

Figure 2. 3Lab Perfect “C” Treatment Serum

3Lab Perfect “C” Treatment Serum

This serum, shown in Figure 2, is said to tone and firm the skin while nourishing and repairing damaged skin cells. It is formulated with sodium ascorbyl phosphateb; ascorbyl glucoside, a vitamin C derivative said to extend the effectiveness of the serum; and apple stem cell technology to help promote healthy cells and delay the look of aging.

Figure 3. H2O+ Spa Body Soother Solar Relief Gel

H2O+ Spa Body Soother Solar Relief Gel

This gel, shown in Figure 3, contains a combination of aloe vera, hydrating marine extracts, sea fennel, wakame, nori, spirulina, vitamins A, C and E, and provitamin B to provide antioxidant, reparative, anti-aging, hydrating and cooling properties for skin that has been exposed to the sun.

Figure 4. DERMAdoctor Photodynamic Therapy Sunlight-Activated Laser Lotion SPF 30

DERMAdoctor Photodynamic Therapy Sunlight-Activated Laser Lotion SPF 30

This photo rejuvenating, solar-powered lotion, shown in Figure 4, reportedly captures UV light and transforms it into visible red light, a proven energy source for eliciting anti-aging effects on the skin.

Footnotes

a Unirepair T-43 (INCI: Butylene Glycol (and) Acetyl Tyrosine (and) Proline (and) Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein (and) Adenosine Triphosphate) is manufactured by Induchem AG.
b Stay C-50 (INCI: Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate) is manufactured by DSM Nutritional Products.
c Matrixyl 3000 (INCI: Water (aqua) (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Carbomer (and) Polysorbate-20 (and) Palmitoyl Oligopeptide (and) Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is manufactured by Sederma.

Biography: Eric S. Abrutyn, TPC2 Advisors Ltd., Inc.

Eric S. Abrutyn, TPC2 Advisors Ltd., Inc.

Eric S. Abrutyn is an active member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, a Cosmetics & Toiletries scientific advisory board member, and chairman of the Personal Care Products Council’s International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient (INCI) Committee. Recently retired from Kao Brands, Abrutyn founded TPC2 Advisors Ltd., Inc., a personal care consultancy. He has more than 35 years of experience in the raw material supplier and skin and hair care manufacturer aspects of personal care.

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