Sun Care

W/O/W Technology to Enhance Organic UVA/UVB Sunscreen Performance

Sep 29, 2015Eric Wang and Delphine Chen, Bio-Nest Biochemical Technology Co., Ltd., Taiwan; Keith West, Kuo Ching Chemical Co. Ltd., Taiwan

A new water-in-oil-in-water technology is described here that functions as an isolating shield, preventing UV filter particles from aggregating and helping their dispersion in formulas. The technology is shown in vitro and in vivo to improve SPF performance, UVA/UVB wide band high protection ratio, SPF sustainability and safety concerns regarding skin penetration.

Coated Inorganic Filters for Elegant and Protective Sunscreens

Apr 1, 2015Howard Epstein, Judy Zhuang, My Trinh Luu and Qinyun Peng, EMD Performance Materials Corp., Philadelphia, USA

Inorganic UV filters must be distributed evenly to ensure sun protection. Further, they can present challenges of a pasty consistency and undesirable opacity when applied to skin. This paper therefore describes strategies using micronized titanium dioxide with different coatings to optimize its dispersion and protective benefits while improving processing and aesthetics.

Earth-friendly Homosalate UV Filter

Jun 13, 2014

Novacyl has introduced its YOSH homosalate UV filter, an oil-soluble material that absorbs in the UVB range and acts as an excellent solvent and booster.

Read the Label Online: Banana Boat Sport Performance Coolzone Sunscreen Lotion SPF 50

Apr 28, 2014Susan Raffy, Susan Raffy Consulting, Inc.

For many, summer is around the corner, and it’s time to break out the sunscreen to protect skin from UV while wearing swimsuits and sports gear.

Symrise Focuses on White Film Reduction, Improved Feel for Sun Care

Apr 8, 2014

During in-cosmetics in Hamburg, Symrise launched SymTio S, a cetearyl nonanoate-coated titanium dioxide for sunscreens, to improve the feel of sun care formulas and reduce the potential for white film forming on the skin.

Efficacy and Elegance in 21st Century Sun Care

Mar 20, 2014Julian P. Hewitt, JPH SunCare Technologies Ltd., Durham, UK; Jennie Teague and Paul Sutcliffe; Vivimed Labs Europe Ltd., Huddersfield, UK

This article discusses formulating strategies to achieve high-SPF sunscreen formulations that are cosmetically elegant and also cost-effective. By carefully choosing actives that complement one another in terms of spectral coverage, and physical and chemical properties, synergistic combinations of relatively inexpensive UV filters can be identified to deliver effective and elegant formulations.

‘Very’ Water-resistant Sunscreens

Mar 20, 2014Luigi Rigano, PhD, ISPE, Milan, Italy

Water-resistance is a key parameter for today’s sunscreens, and there are a number of formulation strategies that can be used alone or in combination to achieve this effect, including: anhydrous formulation, w/o emulsions, film-forming polymers, dissolution of water-insoluble substances with alcohol, low levels of emulsifiers, and entrapping filters in liposomes. These are detailed here.

Encapsulating Hevea brasiliensis for Improved Antioxidant Penetration

Mar 19, 2014Thanaporn Amnuaikit, PhD, and Prapaporn Boonme, PhD; Prince of Songkla University, Songkla, Thailand

This article examines the ability of liposomes to improve the in vitro skin penetration of Hevea brasiliensis extract in a cream, for antioxidant benefits. Additionally, the sensory effects of the liposomes on the cream were assessed.

Dielectric Constant to Develop Clear Sunscreens for Wet Skin

Feb 21, 2014Donald Prettypaul, Diane Kennedy, Anna Gripp and Hani Fares, Ashland Specialty Ingredients

Sunscreen sprays have gained momentum due to their ease of application. However, while they appear clear on dry skin, they often turn cloudy and white when applied to wet skin. Here, the authors present a formulating approach based on the dielectric constant of esters and level of alcohol in formulations to produce anhydrous sprays that appear clear on wet skin.

Dolichos Cell Culture Extract for Protection Against UV Damage

Nov 15, 2013Marida Bimonte, Annalisa Tito, Antonietta Carola and Ani Barbulova, Arterra Bioscience, Naples, Italy; Fabio Apone and Gabriella Colucci, Vitalab srl and Arterra Bioscience srl, Naples, Italy; Mirna Cucchiara, Intercos SpA, Milan, Italy; and Jacqueline Hill, CRB SA, Puidoux, Switzerland

Dolichos biflorus cell culture extract is evaluated here for its effects on skin cells. Results indicate the extract provides strong anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and protective properties for skin, and the ability to repair UV-induced damage. Further, this work reinforces that cell culture systems are efficient biofactories to produce natural and effective compounds.

Knowing Your Audience, with Jack Ferguson, PhD

Nov 1, 2013Rachel L. Grabenhofer, Cosmetics & Toiletries

Jack Ferguson, PhD, believes that gaining a deeper understanding of consumer needs has propelled the industry forward, and he would know—part of his role is to think like consumers as he advises on cosmetic product claims for British television.

Sun Care Use: Beach Survey

May 1, 2013Dennis Lott, Florida Suncare Testing Inc.

In September 2012, 101 sun care product users were surveyed on the beach regarding what SPF and product form(s) they were using, among other questions. While 12.2% used SPFs of 15–29, a 58% majority used SPFs of 30–50. Lotions were the favored form, followed by sprays. This article reports the detailed findings from this survey.

Titanium Dioxide Particle vs. Sun Protection Performance

May 1, 2013S. Wiechers, PhD; P. Biehl; C. Luven; M. Maier, PhD; J. Meyer, PhD; J. Münzenberg, PhD; and C. Schulze-Isfort, PhD Evonik Industries AG; and P. Albers, PhD, Aqura GmbH

The article compares the performance of titanium dioxide as a UV filter in cosmetic formulations as a function of its primary particle size. It was found that with increasing primary particle size, even below 100 nm, the effectiveness of the inorganic (mineral) UV filter was clearly reduced.

Developing Sunscreens for the Preventive Treatment of Photodamage and Premature Aging

Feb 1, 2012Linda D. Rhein, PhD Fairleigh Dickinson University; and Anna Gripp ISP Corp.

This article reviews the mechanisms of ultraviolet radiation insult to skin and explains the formulation of sunscreens to protect against this damage. Further, since the efficacy of combinations of UV filters will vary with formulation base, the formula vehicle and form are discussed, as well as an overview given of typical sunscreen efficacy tests performed prior to production.

Antioxidants in Sunscreens for Improved ROS Protection

Oct 1, 2011Kerry Hanson and Christoper Bardeen, University of California; Donathan Beasley and Thomas Meyer, PhD, Merck

In the present article, sunscreens containing the antioxidants vitamin E and diethylhexyl syringylidene malonate were tested for their efficacy in preventing UV-induced reactive oxygen species in the lower stratum corneum. The addition of the antioxidants was found to significantly improve the ability of low to high SPF sunscreens to attenuate ROS formation in UV-exposed skin.

Deciphering Sun Damage Prevention and Repair Formulas

Mar 1, 2011Eric S. Abruyn, TPC2 Advisors Ltd., Inc.

It is obvious that UVA and UVB radiation damage human skin. Therefore, the question of whether UV damaged skin can be adequately repaired remains to be answered.

Read the Label: Bella B Sunny Bee Natural Sunscreen 40+ SPF

Apr 1, 2010Ni'Kita Wilson, Cosmetech Labs

This is a liquid crystal emulsion based on C14-22 alcohols and C12-20 alkyl glucoside. Glyceryl stearate is used to reinforce the lamellar network. Beeswax, which should only be listed once, is used as a natural oil phase thickener.

Envisioning SPF

Feb 1, 2010Rachel Grabenhofer, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine

The sun care industry faces several challenges, including testing and measuring SPF, questions over the safety of nanotechnology, sunscreen stability, broad-spectrum protection, and inconsistent regulations for allowed UV filters and their combinations. Some of these challenges have plagued product developers for years, thus the industry has had time to develop the means to meet some of them. Recent work in these areas is the primary focus of this issue of C&T magazine.

The Quest for Avobenzone Stabilizers and Sunscreen Photostability

Feb 1, 2009Christine Mendrok-Edinger, Kimberly Smith, Anne Janssen and Jürgen Vollhardt, DSM Nutritional Products

Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane (BMDBM) is well-known as an effective UVA filter when it is stabilized. Here, the authors measure the efficiency of ten commercially available products that are reported to stabilize BMDBM. The most effective product found was octocrylene that, being a UVB filter, also contributed to the SPF.

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