Formula Anatomy Deciphered—Sun Damage Prevention and Repair

By: Eric S. Abruyn, TPC2 Advisors Ltd., Inc.

Posted: March 2, 2011, from the March 2011 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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3Lab Perfect “C” Treatment Serum: This serum, shown in Figure 2, is said to tone and firm the skin while nourishing and repairing damaged skin cells. It is formulated with sodium ascorbyl phosphateb; ascorbyl glucoside, a vitamin C derivative said to extend the effectiveness of the serum; and apple stem cell technology to help promote healthy cells and delay the look of aging. In addition, a peptide is included to increase the production of collagen as well as a peptide complexc to help stimulate fibroblast production. Further, açai berry extract is employed for its antioxidant properties and astaxanthin to protect the skin from oxidative stress. A comprehensive list of the product’s ingredients and functions is shown in Table 2. The product is claimed to decrease the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, minimize age spots and hyperpigmentation caused by sun damage, and improve the elasticity and luminosity of the skin.

H2O+ Spa Body Soother Solar Relief Gel: This gel, shown in Figure 3, contains a combination of aloe vera, hydrating marine extracts, sea fennel, wakame, nori, spirulina, vitamins A, C and E, and provitamin B to provide antioxidant, reparative, anti-aging, hydrating and cooling properties for skin that has been exposed to the sun. A comprehensive list of the product’s ingredients and functions is shown in Table 3.

DERMAdoctor Photodynamic Therapy Sunlight-Activated Laser Lotion SPF 30: This photo rejuvenating, solar-powered lotion, shown in Figure 4, reportedly captures UV light and transforms it into visible red light, a proven energy source for eliciting anti-aging effects on the skin. It is formulated with noni polyphenols and tricalcium to reportedly absorb and emit energy and encourage the production of collagen and elastin fibers. Vitamin D from shiitake mushroom is included for well-being, as well as the sunscreen booster benzylidene diemethoxydimethylindanone and pomegranate, ubiquinone, vitamin E, cucumber, green tea and white tea extracts to fight against free radical damage. A comprehensive list of the product’s ingredients, functions and functions is shown in Table 4.

The company claims the lotion leaves skin smoother, brighter and firmer. In addition, it is reported to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles; improve skin tone and texture; improve the appearance of redness, dryness, roughness, age spots, skin discoloration and pore size; and to even skin’s complexion. The lotion is said to be activated with normal daily activity and to keep working throughout the day.

Formulator Beware

Ingredients that protect skin from UV damage and promote the repair of UV-damaged skin are not difficult to use but the real issue is whether a sufficient amount of them is incorporated into the formulation. The sun repair category is ripe for clinical improvement as the personal care industry often includes ambiguous sun repair claims with products that may not meet consumer expectations. As an example, how does the consumer really judge whether a product in fact repairs sun damage? And most often, the benefits are transient and not permanent changes.