Formula Anatomy Deciphered—Sun Damage Prevention and Repair

By: Eric S. Abruyn, TPC2 Advisors Ltd., Inc.

Posted: March 2, 2011, from the March 2011 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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The natural creatine compounds and different hydration or salt forms that can be used in the present method include: creatine, creatine phosphate and analogs of these compounds such as: creatine-pyruvate; creatine-ascorbate; cyclocreatine; 3 guanidinopropionic acid; guanidinoacetate; homocyclo-creatine; guanidino benzoates, which can act as substrates or substrate analogs for creatine kinase; molecules that mimic the biological activity of creatine; and molecules that modulate the creatine kinase system. These entities act as energy-generating systems and antioxidants to preserve the skin against damage caused by aging and secondary insults such as harmful sun radiation, stress and fatigue.

Natural sunscreen composition: Disclosed in this patent is a natural sunscreen composition formulated with extracts of Hedychium spicatum and/or Alpinia galangal, both of which contain active sunscreen agents.⁸ Processes for producing the same are also described. This sunscreen composition was devised to protect the skin from the harmful effects of both short wavelength UVB rays and long wavelength UVA rays.

Recent Commercial Launches

A number of recent products launched claim to prevent or repair sun damage. The following few were chosen to demonstrate claim positioning and how specific ingredients are incorporated to support these claims. In particular, these products will soothe irritated skin and hydrate it to support internal repair mechanisms. In this author’s opinion, most of the botanical additives are likely not present in sufficient quantities to elicit a cosmeceutical effect but are instead chosen based on antioxidant or skin-calming claims.

The information presented is taken from publicly available sources and is included for illustrative purposes only. The estimated ingredient ranges are provided as a starting point from which formulators can build their own unique formulas.

DermaSel Spa Totes Meer Maske After Sun-Repair (Dead Sea mask): This mask, shown in Figure 1, is formulated with an active ingredient complexa comprised of butylene glycol, acetyl tyrosine, proline, hydrogenated vegetable protein and adenosine triphosphate to support natural skin regeneration. The product contains lime tree blossom extract to soothe skin and olive oil to visibly smooth fine lines and wrinkles. A comprehensive list of the product’s ingredients and functions is shown in Table 1. If used on a regular basis, the creamy mask is said to fight against skin-damaging sun rays.