Formula Anatomy Deciphered—Sun Damage Prevention and Repair

By: Eric S. Abruyn, TPC2 Advisors Ltd., Inc.

Posted: March 2, 2011, from the March 2011 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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In relation to sun damage prevention before, during and after UV exposure, following are some recently issued patents relevant to this product category. Vitamin D for after-sun repair: Research behind this patent found that while the increased use of sunscreens limits damage to the DNA, it may promote cancer growth by preventing vitamin D synthesis in the skin.6 However, according to the invention, the beneficial effects of UV radiation can be obtained by incorporating vitamin D into topical after-sun treatment lotions and creams.

Vitamin D in an after-sun product is reportedly activated by the skin to form calcitriol for cancer prevention and to promote cellular growth and differentiation. Therefore, topical after-sun products with vitamin D may also be beneficial in preventing photoaging.

Creatine for skin preservation: The present invention relates to methods for protecting skin tissue against age-related damage or insults such as harmful UV radiation, stress and fatigue by preserving energy pools and protecting against free radical production and oxidative stress.⁷ These effects are achieved by topically applying a creatine compound or compounds that modulate one or more of the structural or functional components of the creatine kinase/phosphoro-creatine system sufficient to prevent, reduce or ameliorate skin damage or skin aging.

According to the inventors, the creatine kinase/creatine phosphate energy system is only one component of an elaborate energy-generating system found in tissue with high and fluctuating energy requirements. Specifically, the components of the creatine energy system include the enzyme creatine kinase, the substrates creatine and creatine phosphate, and the transporter of creatine. The reaction catalyzed by creatine kinase is illustrated by the equation: MgADP+PCr./MgATP.

Some of the functions associated with this system include efficient regeneration of energy in cells with fluctuating and high energy demands, energy transport to different parts of the cell, phosphoryl transfer activity, ion transport regulation, and involvement in signal transduction pathways.