Nonaqueous Emulsions: History and Current Specialized Applications

May 1, 2013 | Contact Author | By: Paul Thau PacarTech, Berkeley Heights, NJ
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Title: Nonaqueous Emulsions: History and Current Specialized Applications
nonaqueous emulsionsx surfactantsx solventsx silicone emulsifiersx solvophilicityx
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Keywords: nonaqueous emulsions | surfactants | solvents | silicone emulsifiers | solvophilicity

Abstract: Since the early 1980s, nonaqueous emulsions have attracted technical interest as potential vehicles and delivery systems for personal care products. This is due to the development of a broad range of silicone-based emulsifiers, silicone polymers and other polymeric emulsifiers that have enabled their use. This article will briefly review their history and evolution into current-day specialized applications.

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P Thau, Nonaqueous emulsions: History and current specialized applications, Cosm & Toil 128(5) 360-364 (May 2013)

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Until the mid-1970s, practical applications for nonaqueous emulsions in personal care were almost nonexistent due to formulation difficulties and inelegant properties. However, beginning in the early 1980s, specialized nonaqueous emulsions have attracted technical interest as potential vehicles and delivery systems for personal care and cosmetic products. The reason for this transition has been the development and availability of a broad range of silicone-based emulsifiers, silicone polymers and other polymeric emulsifiers.

These materials have enabled the use of nonaqueous emulsions as aesthetic vehicles and delivery systems for a range of distinctive cosmetic and personal care products. This article will briefly review their history and evolution into current-day specialized applications.

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Cited Silicone Surfactants

Dow Corning

3225C Formulation Aid (INCI: Cyclotetrasiloxane (and) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG/PPG-18 dimethicone)
5225C Formulation Aid (INCI: Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone)
Dow Corning 190 Surfactant (INCI: PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone)
Dow Corning 193 Fluid and 5200 (INCI: Lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 Methicone)

Goldschmidt

Abil EM 90 (INCI: Cetyl PEG/PPG-14/14 Dimethicone)
Abil EM 97 (INCI: bis-Cetyl PEG/PPG-14/14 Dimethicone)
Abil WE 09 (INCI: Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone (and) Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (and) Hexyl Laurate)

Shin-Etsu Silicones

KF-6011 (INCI: PEG-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone)
KF-6012 (INCI: PEG/PPG-20/22 Butyl Ether Dimethicone)
KF-6013 (INCI: PEG-9 Dimethicone)
KF-6015 (INCI: PEG-3 Dimethicone)
KF-6016 (INCI: PEG-9 Methyl Ether Dimethicone)
KF-6017 (INCI: PEG-10 Dimethicone)
KF-6038 (INCI: Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone)

Formula 1. Prototype polyol-in-silicone emulsion15 containing vitamin C

Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone 20.0% w/w
Cyclopentasiloxane 2.5
Propylene Glycol (and) 5% Ascorbic Acid 77.0
Sodium Chloride 0.5

 



Formula 2. Anhydrous antiperspirant composition*

* US Pat 5,989,531, T Schamper et al, assigned to Colgate-Palmolive (Nov 23, 1999)

Dimethicone Copolyol, 10% in Cyclomethicone 4.00% w/w
Cyclomethicone 26.00
Aluminum Zirconium Tetrachlorohydrex Glycine, 30% in Propylene Glycol 30.40
Propylene Glycol 29.35
Ethyl Alcohol Anhydrous  9.00
Polysorbate-80 0.25
Fragrance (parfum) 1.00

Formula 3. Kiehl’s Powerful-Strength Line-Reducing Concentrate

Propylene Glycol Cyclopentasiloxane
Ascorbic Acid, 10% w/w
Glycerin
Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1
Dimethicone Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Lauroyl Lysine
Acrylates Copolymer
Adenosine

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