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Raw Material State of the Industry
By: Rachel Grabenhofer, Cosmetics & Toiletries
Posted: April 29, 2013
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Formulation Feats: Croda has devised a sensory mapping tool to plot the perceivable effects of emulsifiers in emulsions, to assist in controlling the sensory effects of emulsions. Johnson & Johnson has worked with polymerized surfactants, showing how a deeper understanding of micelle size distribution can leverage the concept of hydrodynamic size exclusion to prevent surfactant penetration and irritation.
In relation, the 2013 Cosmetics & Toiletries R&D Awards finalists in the “Best New Ingredient” category primarily aim to improve formulating. Finalists included: BASF, for a raw material to improve the sensory profile of hair relaxers; Dow Corning, for an elastomer blend that makes silicone elastomer gels more versatile for the delivery of both oil-soluble and water-soluble actives; Berg and Schmidt, for an ingredient based on natural fruit and cereal fibers for emulsifying and thickening properties; Clariant, for a polymer to impart a soft skin feel yet provide solvent compatibility, salt tolerance and stabilizing effects; and Presperse, for a polymeric thickener with less cross-linking than other polymeric thickeners, providing a more flexible polymer chain that allows for the interaction of hydrophobic groups and increases structure and viscosity. Related “Most Creative Application” technologies include: Kimberly-Clark Corp. for a soothing tissue with phase-change materials and Pfizer, for a formulation approach to improve the flavor of lip balm containing UV filters by incorporating a sorbitol spider ester, sorbeth-2-hexaoleate, from Surfatech LLC. The winners were Dow Corning for Best New Ingredient and Yves Saint Laurent Beaute for Most Creative Application.
Beyond these cosmetic R&D areas emerging in the literature and surfacing at industry conferences, it is worth noting that interest in animal test alternatives, nanoparticles, sunscreen testing, natural preservation and cosmetic regulations in China also continues to rise. In fact, at the SCC Annual Scientific Meeting in December 2012, regulations in China garnered their own session, which was well-attended—and the first U.S.-China Cosmetic Regulatory Symposium immediately follows Suppliers’ Day. This editor recommends keeping these on the radar for 2014.