Multifunctional treatment products are the beauty consumer’s opportunity for a bargain, especially in a case like this, where an anti-acne cleanser that purifies also smooths and mattifies the skin. This column will review the ingredient listing for claims substantiation and functionality.
The anti-acne active here is salicylic acid. While this acid can be used up to 2.0%, per the U.S. Food and Drug Administration’s OTC Monograph, this product uses only 0.50% for a more gentle formulation. The formula is a suspension of solids in a surfactant base. The kaolin provides creaminess and absorbs oil and excess sebum. The moisturizers or humectants are butylene glycol and glycerin. The surfactants are decyl glucoside, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate and coco-betaine, which produce mild and creamy foam.
The thickening/stabilizing agents are Zea mays (corn) starch, Chondrus crispus (carrageenan) and xanthan gum. Polyethylene adds to the solids and density of the formula while also providing gentle exfoliation without scratching the skin.
The bio-active or cosmeceutical ingredients are glycolic acid for smoothing and exfoliating and dipotassium glycyrrhizate, a widely used anti-aging ingredient.
The preservative system consists of zinc gluconate and is boosted by chelating agent disodium EDTA. Sodium hydroxide is the pH adjustor for the glycolic acid and salicylic acid. Titanium dioxide provides opacity, and the color is derived from Blue 1 lake and chromium oxide green, which are more compatible with clay-based products than FD&C colorants.
*The viewpoints expressed in this column are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect those of Cosmetics & Toiletries.