Cosmetics & Toiletries is pleased to present the finalists for its 2013 R&D Awards, which honor ingredients for their innovative design and finished products for the novelty and craft of their formulation. The following finalists were chosen based on the ratings of ten international experts in the cosmetics industry, from a mix of manufacturers and universities. Ratings were based on significance to the industry and long-term impact. The winners will be announced at In-Cosmetics, to be held April 16-18, 2013, in Paris.
For “Best New Ingredient,” the finalists are:
BASF, for its Plantasil Relaxcare. Plantasil Relaxcare (INCI: Potassium Silicates (and) Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside (and) Glycerin) can be added to formulations to deliver an improved sensory profile for hair relaxers. Tensile testing has shown hair fibers treated with relaxers containing silicate exhibit improved hair strength. EDX-REM investigations of the ingredient revealed the penetration of silicates into the hair shaft, and sensory assessments showed improvements in hair softness and manageability when compared with formulations not containing silicates.
Dow Corning, for its Dow Corning EL-7040 Hydro Elastomer Blend. This new elastomer extends the versatility of silicone elastomer gels, well-known for the unique sensory and mattifying properties they provide in products like primers, by introducing a polar functionality into the elastomer gel. This results in new types of delivery systems for both oil-soluble and water-soluble actives with new textures and refreshing, smooth and powdery skin feel.
Berg & Schmidt, for its Bergamuls ET1. BergaMuls ET 1 is based on natural fruit and cereal fibers, and has excellent emulsifying and thickening properties. Such fibers reinforce health and well-being, supporting the concept natural products. The ingredient can be processed warm or cold, and it emulsifies and thickens in one step. Compatible with other ingredients such as vegetable and silicone oils, esters, electrolytes, UV filters, etc., its full benefits are realized even at low levels, i.e., 1.5-5%.
Clariant, for its Aristoflex Velvet. Aristoflex Velvet (INCI: Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-11) is a novel polymer that imparts a velvet-soft skin feel for applications ranging from skin care to cleansing. The ingredient has excellent solvent compatibility, salt tolerance and stabilizing effects—i.e., of air, particles, abrasives, etc., in clear gels and enables new application forms such as face wash gels with optimal sensory and visual effects. It is provided as a 100% active powder, is preservative-free, pre-neutralized and easy to formulate.
Presperse, for its Acqua Pelle AP-300. This ingredient has a lower degree of cross-linking than typical polymeric thickeners, providing a more flexible polymer chain. In the presence of electrolytes, this flexibility allows for the interaction (or association) of hydrophobic groups where traditional polymers would break down, in turn increasing structure and viscosity. Compatible with traditional and sulfate-free surfactants, it also enables sulfate-free systems to respond to a salt curve while maintaining clarity and enhancing foam.
For Most Creative Application, the finalists are:
Eufora International, for its Beautifying Elixirs. Eufora’s Damage Cure Complex and Vibrant Color Complex are both used in its nine-product elixir line. The damage-focused technology works on the inner structure and outer cuticle of hair to restore lipids, amino acids and important nutrients. The color complex stops oxidation by creating a barrier with UV-absorbing ingredients and antioxidants. It includes Croda’s ChromAveil product to protect hair fiber integrity and stop color degradation; Brazil nut; polyquaternium-55; Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (Tea Leaf) and cranberry oil.
Yves Saint Laurent Beaute—L'Oréal Luxe, for its Forever Youth Liberator Serum. Glycobiology has emerged as a key topic of science, and YSL Beauté has applied this concept to skin. Glycans are found on the surface of cells and can "unlock" them, to ensure that regeneration messages are transmitted appropriately. Data suggests that depending on their composition, glycans could differentially modulate keratinocytes, melanocytes or fibroblasts. Forever Youth Liberator is thus formulated with a complex of active ingredients to “unlock” cells and release youth-promoting messages.
Belcorp, for its Skinexpert—Face Perfectionist Primer. This technology puts a silky, translucent layer on the face, building a network of compounds that mattify, fill imperfections and retexturize skin, including: microsponges with sebum absorption effects for up to 8 hours, and microsponges for a soft focus effect, decreasing wrinkle appearance. An immediate silky effect is perceived from the first application to skin; 100% of users reported an immediate soft sensation.
Ashland Specialty Ingredients, for its HydroSheer formulations. Ashland developed its HydroSheer formulations after discovering that hydrophobic film, under special conditions, is miscible in water. Set amounts of esters and alcohol were determined for a spray formulation, which with the addition of the company’s Advantage Plus polymer, created clear film on wet skin. These formulations balance the dielectric constant and accordingly, remain clear in the presence of water. Consumers may now apply sunscreen without the whitening effects of standard water-resistant sunscreens.
IDC Dermo, for its Integral Dermal Protection (IDP). Recent data has raised concerns about the effects of infrared and visible light on skin. Moreover, environmental and lifestyle factors contribute to extrinsic skin and pigmentation disorders. Thus, IDC has launched skin care products for full protection, including an AhR blocker to counteract environmental factors, antioxidants to neutralize the influence of visible light and IR radiation, and a TRPV1 modulator to protect against IR-induced thermal aging, in addition to full spectrum UVA/B filters.