In Sight—Forming a Film for Irritation-free Hair Removal

By: Katie Anderson (Schaefer), Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine

Posted: June 4, 2012, from the June 2012 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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The novelty of the system was its focus on irritation prevention, which was achieved in a balm that was applied before the hair removal cream. To prevent irritation, the balm was designed to first deposit a fine-grade film on the skin. The hair would then stand up through the layer to be removed. That was the challenge, according to Morris, because it required a continuous but thin film.

“The product had to protect the skin but not coat the hair so that it could be targeted by the thioglycolate,” explained Morris. This required a balance of waxes, oils and emollients.

Irritation Protection

The balm was designed to act similar to the moisture barrier on skin, which is comprised of skin cells, oils and lipids. The balm creates a second layer on the skin surface that allows the hair removal cream to remove the hair above it but not affect the skin below it.

“The film had to lock the water-based hair removal cream out,” said Morris, who added there is a little occlusion but only for a short time. Locking the depilatory out of the skin is the beeswax, according to Morris. “It is important because it creates a continuous film with structure but keeps out the water-loving chemistry of the depilatory,” she noted. The beeswax is combined with sucrose polycottonseedate and soy extract, which help soften the skin to allow for a smooth, even application. A copolymer of Chinese wood oil and rapeseed also allow for a sheer, thin film. The film-formers combination mentioned above create a film that would not be possible with other waxes or emollients, according to Morris.

“We are using less crystalline waxes than petrolatum, which may lay down well but not offer a continuous film,” she explained. Crystalline waxes do not stick together well and require a thicker layer to protect skin.