Formulas Deciphered: Facial Wash

By: Eric S. Abrutyn, TPC2 Advisors Ltd., Inc.

Posted: October 29, 2010, from the November 2010 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

page 2 of 4

During the past few months, a few innovative facial cleansers have been launched on the market. The most recently launched cleansers have focused on brand positioning using botanical claims or natural ingredients, refreshing cooling agents, fragrance appeal, new product forms or packaging changes. The key benefits this category must provide are: effective removal of facial oils, pleasurable experience during application, aesthetic after-feel on skin, and improved moisturization of dry skin.

Recent Facial Cleansing Patents

Following are some recently issued patents relating to the development of facial washes. These patents are highlighted for their unique approaches to this conventional product category; e.g., through antimicrobial performance, a mild and alkoxylate-free emolliency approach, anti-acne action and exfoliation.

Antimicrobial wash formulation: This invention relates to soap-based liquid body and facial wash compositions.¹ In particular, it relates to such compositions comprising anti- microbial agents (e.g., silver, zinc, copper particles or mixtures thereof), and to a method for enhancing the deposition of these antimicrobial agents. Specifically, using high solvent/low water compositions together with incompletely neutralized fatty acids, which helps to structure compositions, in combination with modified benefit agents including particles and oils, the deposition of the antimicrobial agents from unpredictably stable compositions is enhanced.

Water-compatible emollient: This cleansing technology relates to improved alkoxylated derivatives of glyceryl cocoate that may be used in cleansing compositions such as body washes, shampoos, liquid hand soap, facial washes, dish detergents and car wash detergents.2 The alkoxylated derivatives of glyceryl cocoate provide improved multifunctional performance properties including conditioning and skin-feel characteristics such as skin and/or hair softness and moisturization; viscosity building; emulsification including improved stability, reduced and uniform droplet size; and foaming and skin-feel properties.

Hypohalous acids for anti-acne exfoliation: This invention aims to provide topical application of an effective formulation for the treatment and/or prevention of Acne vulgaris and related skin conditions such as acne rosacea, and for the exfoliation of the skin for aesthetic effects. The formulation contains at least one active ingredient from a group of hypohalous acids including but not limited to hypochlorous acid, hypobromous acid and hypoiodious acid.

Featured Ingredient: Betaine