Building Natural Products

Oct 1, 2009 | Contact Author | By: Eric S. Abrutyn, TPC2 Advisors Ltd., Inc.
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Title: Building Natural Products
naturalx formulationx
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Keywords: natural | formulation

Abstract: Since the cosmetics and personal care industry is not regulated, various organizations have offered conflicting positions on standardized guidelines for natural and organic claims. To improve communication on this topic, it will therefore become important to dissociate claims regarding the naturalness of ingredients from the perception of safety.

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Based on previously published studies and consumer articles, it appears that consumer interest in natural and organic products is growing. The question is: What does this mean? Are consumers actually interested in products that contain natural materials, or are they really interested in products that are safer and whose production or use have a minimal impact on the planet (i.e., they are renewable)? The key to meeting consumer demand is to understand what natural means in order to produce formulations that meet expectations.

Since the cosmetics and personal care industry is not regulated, various organizations have offered conflicting positions on standardized guidelines for natural and organic claims. To improve communication on this topic, it will therefore become important to dissociate claims regarding the naturalness of ingredients from the perception of safety.

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Formula 1. Burt's Bees beeswax lip balm

Beeswax qs
Coconut oil 2.05–5.0%
Sunflower oil 2.5–5.0
Tocopheryl acetate  0.5–1.0
Tocopherol (vitamin E) 0.5–1.0
Lanolin 0.5–1.0
Peppermint oil  < 0.25
Comfrey root extract < 0.1
Rosemary extract < 0.1

Formula 2. Tom's of Maine lemongrass natural deodorant body bar

Soaps of coconut and palm qs
Sage extract < 0.1%
Rosemary extract < 0.1%
Ascorbyl palmitate < 0.1%
Lemongrass oil < 0.25%

Note: These vegetable-based soaps include a blend of rosemary and vitamin C for preservation, and of sage and lemongrass for their reported natural odor-fighting properties.

Formula 3. Green by Nature mint green tea hand cream

Water (aqua) Carrier
Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter) Emollient/moisturizer
Sesamum indicum (sesame) seed oil Emollient
Beeswax Structurant
Prunus persica (peach) kernel extract Emollient
Pistacia vera seed oil (pistachio oil) Emollient
Glycine soja (soybean) seed extract Emollient
Chamomilla recutita (matricaria) flower extract Emollient
Stearic acid Emulsifier
Aloe barbadensis leaf extract Skin calming
Camellia oleifera leaf extract (green tea extract) Claim support
Yogurt powder Co-emulsifier
Rosa moschata seed oil (rose hip oil) Claim support
Sorbitan olivate Emulsifier
Tocopherol (vitamin E) Antioxidant
Citrus grandis (grapefruit) seed extract Skin calming
Mentha piperita (peppermint) oil Skin calming
DMDM hydantoin Preservative
Iodopropynyl butylcarbamate Preservative
Citrus aurantium amara (bitter orange) fruit extract Skin calming/aroma
Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) Antioxidant
Citric acid  pH Adjuster
Malic acid pH Adjuster
Glycerin Humectant

Formula 4. All natural styling gel*

A. Dehydroxanthan gum (Amaze XT polymer, Azko Nobel) 0.85% w/w
B. Water (aqua) 50.00
C. Tapioca starch (Naviance Tapioca certified organic biopolymer, Azko Nobel) 2.50
D. Deionized water (aqua) 44.95
Glycerin (vegetable grade) 0.25
E. Sodium benzoate 1.00
Benzyl alcohol 0.25
Hydrolyzed wheat protein (and) hydrolyzed wheat starch (and) water (aqua) 0.20
  100.00

Procedure: Without heat, slowly sift A into B with good agitation (700 rpm), until completely dispersed. Reduce mixing speed to 400 rpm and mix for 15 min to completely hydrate. In a separate mixing vessel, sift C into D with good agitation (~ 400 rpm) and mix until completely dispersed. Slowly add CD to AB. Continue mixing at ~ 400 rpm and heat to 80°C. Hold for 25 min. Cool to 45°C before adding E in order. Mix until homogenous. Fill containers. Viscosity: 15,000–20,000 cps; Brkfld Heliopath Spindle #T-C /10 rpm; pH 5.0–7.0

*Note: Formula provided courtesy of Akzo Nobel; naturally derived ingredients in this styling gel provide moderate stiffness with humidity resistance and a pleasant aesthetic feel. Tapioca starch offers texture and hold with excellent aesthetics while dehydroxanthan gum polymer yields rheology and high humidity hold.

Formula 5. All natural sunscreen lotion*

A. Water (aqua) qs
Zinc oxide 10.00% w/w
B. Glycerin 2.50
 Xantham gum 0.50
C. Cetearyl alcohol (and) coco glucoside 3.00
Sorbitan sesquioleate 0.75
 White beeswax 1.50
Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter) 1.50
Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil)  1.00
Prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil  0.50
Sesamum indicum (sesame) oil 0.50
Tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E acetate) 0.50
Bisabolol nat. 0.20

Procedure: Combine A, mix well and heat to 75–80°C. Premix B and add to A at 75°C while homogenizing. Separately combine C, heat to 75°C and add C to AB at 75°C, homogenizing until batch is uniform. Transfer batch to sweep mixing and cool to 40°C. Add D in order and mix until room temperature. Homogenize at slow to medium speed till batch uniform, then stop.

*Note: Formula provided courtesy of BASF.

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