Building Natural Products
Formulas
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Formula 1. Burt's Bees beeswax lip balm
Formula 1. Burt's Bees beeswax lip balm
Beeswax qs Coconut oil 2.05–5.0% Sunflower oil 2.5–5.0 Tocopheryl acetate 0.5–1.0 Tocopherol (vitamin E) 0.5–1.0 Lanolin 0.5–1.0 Peppermint oil < 0.25 Comfrey root extract < 0.1 Rosemary extract < 0.1 - Formula 2. Tom's of Maine lemongrass natural deodorant body bar
Formula 2. Tom's of Maine lemongrass natural deodorant body bar
Soaps of coconut and palm qs Sage extract < 0.1% Rosemary extract < 0.1% Ascorbyl palmitate < 0.1% Lemongrass oil < 0.25% Note: These vegetable-based soaps include a blend of rosemary and vitamin C for preservation, and of sage and lemongrass for their reported natural odor-fighting properties.
- Formula 3. Green by Nature mint green tea hand cream
Formula 3. Green by Nature mint green tea hand cream
Water (aqua) Carrier Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter) Emollient/moisturizer Sesamum indicum (sesame) seed oil Emollient Beeswax Structurant Prunus persica (peach) kernel extract Emollient Pistacia vera seed oil (pistachio oil) Emollient Glycine soja (soybean) seed extract Emollient Chamomilla recutita (matricaria) flower extract Emollient Stearic acid Emulsifier Aloe barbadensis leaf extract Skin calming Camellia oleifera leaf extract (green tea extract) Claim support Yogurt powder Co-emulsifier Rosa moschata seed oil (rose hip oil) Claim support Sorbitan olivate Emulsifier Tocopherol (vitamin E) Antioxidant Citrus grandis (grapefruit) seed extract Skin calming Mentha piperita (peppermint) oil Skin calming DMDM hydantoin Preservative Iodopropynyl butylcarbamate Preservative Citrus aurantium amara (bitter orange) fruit extract Skin calming/aroma Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) Antioxidant Citric acid pH Adjuster Malic acid pH Adjuster Glycerin Humectant - Formula 4. All natural styling gel*
Formula 4. All natural styling gel*
A. Dehydroxanthan gum (Amaze XT polymer, Azko Nobel) 0.85% w/w B. Water (aqua) 50.00 C. Tapioca starch (Naviance Tapioca certified organic biopolymer, Azko Nobel) 2.50 D. Deionized water (aqua) 44.95 Glycerin (vegetable grade) 0.25 E. Sodium benzoate 1.00 Benzyl alcohol 0.25 Hydrolyzed wheat protein (and) hydrolyzed wheat starch (and) water (aqua) 0.20 100.00 Procedure: Without heat, slowly sift A into B with good agitation (700 rpm), until completely dispersed. Reduce mixing speed to 400 rpm and mix for 15 min to completely hydrate. In a separate mixing vessel, sift C into D with good agitation (~ 400 rpm) and mix until completely dispersed. Slowly add CD to AB. Continue mixing at ~ 400 rpm and heat to 80°C. Hold for 25 min. Cool to 45°C before adding E in order. Mix until homogenous. Fill containers. Viscosity: 15,000–20,000 cps; Brkfld Heliopath Spindle #T-C /10 rpm; pH 5.0–7.0
*Note: Formula provided courtesy of Akzo Nobel; naturally derived ingredients in this styling gel provide moderate stiffness with humidity resistance and a pleasant aesthetic feel. Tapioca starch offers texture and hold with excellent aesthetics while dehydroxanthan gum polymer yields rheology and high humidity hold.
- Formula 5. All natural sunscreen lotion*
Formula 5. All natural sunscreen lotion*
A. Water (aqua) qs Zinc oxide 10.00% w/w B. Glycerin 2.50 Xantham gum 0.50 C. Cetearyl alcohol (and) coco glucoside 3.00 Sorbitan sesquioleate 0.75 White beeswax 1.50 Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter) 1.50 Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil) 1.00 Prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil 0.50 Sesamum indicum (sesame) oil 0.50 Tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E acetate) 0.50 Bisabolol nat. 0.20 Procedure: Combine A, mix well and heat to 75–80°C. Premix B and add to A at 75°C while homogenizing. Separately combine C, heat to 75°C and add C to AB at 75°C, homogenizing until batch is uniform. Transfer batch to sweep mixing and cool to 40°C. Add D in order and mix until room temperature. Homogenize at slow to medium speed till batch uniform, then stop.
*Note: Formula provided courtesy of BASF.
By: Eric S. Abrutyn, TPC2 Advisors Ltd., Inc.
Posted: September 29, 2009, from the October 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.
Based on previously published studies and consumer articles, it appears that consumer interest in natural and organic products is growing. The question is: What does this mean? Are consumers actually interested in products that contain natural materials, or are they really interested in products that are safer and whose production or use have a minimal impact on the planet (i.e., they are renewable)? The key to meeting consumer demand is to understand what natural means in order to produce formulations that meet expectations.
Since the cosmetics and personal care industry is not regulated, various organizations have offered conflicting positions on standardized guidelines for natural and organic claims. To improve communication on this topic, it will therefore become important to dissociate claims regarding the naturalness of ingredients from the perception of safety.
Safety is inherent in the raw materials used for formulating, regardless of their origin and in the synergies among ingredients—for more than 50 years, the industry has worked hard to monitor the safety of products on the market, supported by the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA). And recently, more governmental agencies such as the FDA, the US Department of Agriculture (USDA) and the Council of Europe’s Committee of Experts on Cosmetic Products have taken a proactive role in sorting out the meanings of natural and organic for the cosmetics and personal care industry. Such organizations act as a clearer scientific focal point in deciding what ingredients are safe for use in cosmetic products. In addition, several organizations currently are monitoring the safety of cosmetics and personal care ingredients, such as the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) panel.
General Formula Standards
As noted, an ever-growing list of organizations with standardized guidelines exists that measures the naturalness of a product formula. The definition for natural in chemicals legislation was introduced in 1981, and in 2000, the Council of Europe’s Committee of Experts on CosmeticProducts issued guidelines for natural cosmetic products. Only as recently as 2008, however, did the USDA and the European Cosmetic Standards Working Group (COSMOS)1 provide additional guidance for formulating to meet natural claims. Nongovernmental, for-profit organizations offering organic and/or natural certification for cosmetic products include: Quality Assurance International,2 the National Science Foundation,3 ECOCERT,4 OASIS,5 Nature,6 the Soil Association, Guaranteed Organic Certification Agency,7 BDIH,8 the Natural Products Association,9 and Certech10—to name a few. However, organic and natural certifications for cosmetics are not backed by specific legislation, such as in the foods industry.
- Formula 2. Tom's of Maine lemongrass natural deodorant body bar