Éminence erupted onto the natural and organic market several years ago and continues to have a faithful following in spas and among estheticians. However, can the consumer rely on a serum that proposes to “turn back time?” This column will review the ingredient listing for claims substantiation and functionality.
Unfortunately, this product demonstrates a poor example of compliance with commonly accepted INCI nomenclature, which happens often with natural brands. None of the botanical extracts listed exhibit their Latin binomial names and “Natural Retinol Alternative Complex” and “Biocomplex” are not proper INCI names.
The product is a serum, but there are no emulsifying, thickening or stabilizing agents in the deck. Neroli oil is a fragrant essential oil that, in this author's opinion, poses some concern as the first ingredient in this product due to potential skin irritation around the delicate eye area. Coconut water, a popular trend in the nutritional industry, has surfaced as a bioactive or cosmeceutical ingredient in this formula due to its electrolyte and mineral content.
Retinol alternatives, comprised of tara tree and chicory root oligosaccharides, could possibly demonstrate corrective properties if they were shown to stimulate cell turnover, but not necessarily the lifting and tightening benefits that are claimed. The Swiss green apple stem cells (Mibelle's PhytoCellTec Malus Domestica (INCI: Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Glycerin (and) Lecithin (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Water (aqua)) only make claims for “protecting the longevity of skin stem cells and delaying senescence (aging) of essential cells” not “maintaining skin’s elasticity or regeneration by strengthening cells” as claimed. Also, it could not be verified that the extract is from green apples, just “rare” apples. Carrot extract is a natural source of beta carotene, which is a vitamin A precursor and antioxidant.
Any ingredient listed after coconut water would probably be in the formula at less than 1%. There is no preservative in this formula unless it is “hidden” in one of the other ingredients.