A Protein Approach to Solvent-free Extraction

By: Katie Anderson (Schaefer), Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine

Posted: August 1, 2011, from the August 2011 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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“Testing utilizing blueberries and cranberries discovered that the matrix produced concentrates that were more efficacious, stable and bioavailable [than standard extractions],” explained Raskin. The actives were found to be more efficacious due to their presence in concentrated form. Raskin added that the electrostatic binding to the matrix allows the bioactive compounds additional stability by shielding and protecting the them with the surrounding proteins. “This platform works similar to the liposome technology. It protects compounds and allows them to dissociate slowly from the matrix. We can see it in the human digestive system, where the compounds are protected from being degraded saliva, and they are slowly being released when the matrix travels down the digestive system. It is a similar process to encapsulation,” explained Raskin. The company has conducted stability testing that showed the matrix-enriched bioactives to be more light stable, temperature stable and chemically stable.

Raskin has found the concentrates to be more bioavailable to the body. “The enriched matrix compounds are more bioavailable than pure compounds, particularly in the human digestive system, where the matrix protects them from digestive enzymes, shields them and releases them in the right compartment,” he explained.

In addition to the stability, bioavailability and efficacy functions, the concentrates are said to offer formulators a cost-effective way to deliver skin benefits.

“This platform is more affordable for the manufacturer because it is more bioactive and bioavailable per gram,” noted Raskin, who added that the platform also does not utilize solvents. “Solvents are expensive, and this process does not need them.”

The company currently is working with partners in the cosmetic industry to investigate the benefits of these ingredients in formulations. Raskin noted that the insolubility and opacity of the matrix does not allow for the production of clear liquids such as shampoos.