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Formulating with Naturals—Skin Care
By: Arthur Georgalas
Posted: February 3, 2011, from the February 2011 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.
page 5 of 5
To fragrance the emulsion, numerous natural flower and fruit scents are available. From this author’s limited experience in fragrance, chamomile essential oil is suggested as a good starting scent since it works at low levels to mask many base odors with a pleasant and persistent floral note. Natural fragrancing is an art that requires an expert to achieve the right result but suffice it to say it is quite possible to naturally fragrance most products the formulator may envision.
Conclusion
Overall, formulators may limit their range by choosing to go truly natural; however, with some background information and a good deal of experimentation, a variety of effective and aesthetic skin care emulsions can be formulated. When the ingredient range is expanded to naturally derived and nature-identical compounds, the formulator’s palette expands to an even greater variety. In either case, hopefully these strictures placed on formulators will engender innovation rather than stifle creativity in the development of natural products with greater benefits for the end user.
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References
Send e-mail to CT_author@allured.com.
1. www.nsf.org/business/newsroom/articles/0903_n3_nsf305.asp
2. www.cosmos-standard.org/docs/COSMOS-standard-final-jan-10.pdf
3. www.oasisseal.org/OASIS_Standard_100_draft.pdf
4. www.fda.gov/AboutFDA/Transparency/Basics/ucm214868.htm
5. http://guidance.echa.europa.eu/docs/guidance_document substance_ id_en.pdf
6. www.natrue.org/articles-news/read/article/new-legislation-in-europe-to-set-an-end-togreenwashing/
7. Food Chemistry, 3rd edn, H-D Belitz, W Grosch, P Schieberle, eds, Springer-Verlag: Berlin (2004) pp 515
8. J Bonner and AW Galston, The Physiology and Biochemistry of Rubber Formation in Plants, The Botanical Review XIII(10) 543–596 (Dec 1947)
9. XQ Han, Natural raw materials and enzymatic modification of agricultural by-products for protein-based surfactants, in Protein Based Surfactants, ch 2, I Nanna and J Xia, eds, Marcel Dekker, New York (2001) pp 35–36
10. Arginine, company data sheet, www.ajiaminoscience.com/products/manufactured_products/l-amino_acids/L-Arginine.aspx (2007)
11. 90% Organic cream formulation, company website, www.kosterkeunen.com
12. www.natrue.org/fileadmin/natrue/downloads/Criteria_EN_1.9_FINAL.pdf (All websites accessed Dec 7, 2010)
Lab Practical: Using Naturals
- Natural materials have more microbes, and microbial limits for food products are sometimes higher than cosmetics. Be sure to check and control the microbe content.
- Natural materials have a wider variablity. Specifications should be set and supplies should be screened critically.
- Naturals have more natural color and odor. This should be considered when setting formulated product specifications and choosing fragrances and masking agents.
- Naturals can be more heat/processing sensitive. Formulators should be aware of how heat, shear and order of addition affect the final result and formula reproducibility.
