At in-cosmetics in Hamburg Induchem is set to unveil a new anti-hair loss active based on regenerative medicine research. Neocapyl (INCI: Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) Zinc Chloride (and) Glycine (and) Larix Europaea Wood Extract (and) Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract) contains a polyphenol from larch tree that is able to activate the division of ORSc, the bulge stem cells that have a crucial function in the initiation of the anagen phase of hair growth.
Specifically, dihydroquercetin-glucoside (DHQG) is able to activate the division of ORSc while maintaining their differentiation properties (cytokeratin 15 activation). DHQG also showed its capability to protect these cells from apoptosis (BCL2 activation), and to drive them towards the anagen cycle (β-catenin activation), while boosting the metabolism of dermal papilla fibroblasts (HFPDc cells). Its action is reinforced by the presence of EGCG-glucoside (a biotech derivative of the green tea EGCG) to reduce the typical inflammation (interleukin-8) of alopecic scalp.
These biological activators (DHQG and EGCG2) have been combined with glycine (Gly: a key amino acid of hair) and zinc (Zn: an activator of cystin incorporation in keratin) to favor the hair growth metabolism.
The company found more hair growth with the active than with Minoxidil through the Philpott assay. In addition, they reported better hair growth results than with hair transplantation surgery via double blind versus placebo clinical trial on volunteers.
The active is produced with an organic solvent-free enzymatic glycosylation process. It is a Active Cosmetic Ingredient (ACI) with a purity over 97%, and is the cosmetic equivalent of the Active Pharmaceutical Ingredients (API) from the pharma industries.
The active is odorless and does not impact the color of formulations. It is compatible with alcohol for hair care lotions. In addition to hair growth products, it can be formulated into eyelash growth and eyebrow restoration products. This ingredient is water soluble and can be formulated into any hair care formulation, including hair sprays.