“Man”tiaging

By: Katie Schaefer, C&T Magazine

Posted: October 2, 2006, from the October 2006 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

Skin care companies have taken notice of a newer demographic—men. In the past, male grooming primarily consisted of shaving products and deodorants, but as companies launch men-specific products, this market segment is recognizing that skin care is no longer just for women. Euromonitor has shown, for example, that per capita spending on skin care for men in Western Europe rose 134% between 1997 and 2002, making it the second largest male skin care market in the world next to the Asia Pacific region.

Although scarce in the past, antiaging products for men have become a significant presence as men join women in the conquest to feel and look younger. Canadian cosmeceutical company B. Kamins, Chemist, has introduced an antiaging and soothing eye gel, as well as an antiaging daily moisturizer SPF 15, to its men’s skin care line. Antiaging products for men often are considered the same as for women; however, the company’s founder and CEO, pharmaceutical chemist Ben Kaminsky, says they are not.

Aging in Men
There are two sets of aging principles that apply to both men and women, extrinsic and intrinsic, according to Kaminsky. What sets men and women apart is how they age. “Intrinsic is 20% of total aging. … It really is your genes and it is not treatable with skin care,” said Kaminsky. Extrinsic aging, or aging caused by the environment, however, is treatable with skin care products. Extrinsic aging may include damage from the sun, wind or smog among other environmental factors.

In males, extrinsic aging can be particularly damaging to skin. “Males historically have taken part in sports and are outdoors more,” Kaminsky explained. “And although they are out in the sun more, they are not protected at all times.” Outdoor exposure to elements produces more noticeably damaging extrinsic aging in men than in women, according to Kaminsky, thus substantiating the need for specialized antiaging products for men.

Formulating for Men
 A primary difference between male and female antiaging products, according to Kaminsky, is the base. Men typically do not want heavy or tacky products. To eliminate the heaviness in a formula while providing moisturization, antiaging products for men are formulated with water-soluble moisturizing ingredients; for example, physiological humectants such as glycerin, sodium lactate, urea or maple isolate—an ingredient developed in the company’s laboratory. “These are all beautiful natural moisturizing ingredients that are soluble in water,” said Kaminsky.