Strategies for Hair Repair, Strengthening and Growth

Jun 1, 2014 | Contact Author | By: Luigi Rigano, PhD; ISPE srl, Milan, Italy
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Title: Strategies for Hair Repair, Strengthening and Growth
hair repairx stressorsx strengtheningx growth damagex active pollutantsx formula vehiclesx activesx polymersx emollientsx sunscreensx
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Keywords: hair repair | stressors | strengthening | growth damage | active pollutants | formula vehicles | actives | polymers | emollients | sunscreens

Abstract: Many approaches can be used to fight hair damage and aging. These include repairing hair structure to recover as much of its integrity as possible and treating hair with specified ingredients to increase strength and resilience. In addition, promoting hair growth can be accomplished by acting on the scalp. The practical application of these strategies is described here.

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L Rigano, Strategies for Hair Repair, Strengthening and Growth, Cosm & Toil 129(5) 56-51 (2014)

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Consumers dedicate an impressive amount of time over the course of a lifetime to cleaning and styling hair, and managing its luster and sensorial appeal, but many daily treatments can damage the hair—notably harsh shampoos, heavy brushing and combing, as well as frequent exposure to chemicals, e.g., from perms, bleaching and dyes.

Moreover, environmental stressors including excessive exposure to sun and salt water, very dry or humid atmospheres, and absorption of city pollutants pose risks to the integrity of hair structure. Finally, aging phenomena contribute to decreases in the speed of hair renewal, weakening the keratin structures and producing thinner and less structured hair shafts.

Many approaches can be used to fight these phenomena. These include: repairing hair structure to recover as much of its integrity as possible; treating hair with specified ingredients to increase its strength and resilience; and directly acting on the scalp to promote hair growth. The practical application of these strategies is described here.

The Right Vehicles

Before delving into active solutions, it is important to consider that any hair care treatment must take into account a few major factors. The appearance of the treated hair must be pleasant and shiny, and its feel soft and manageable. The amount of residue left on the scalp and the hair should be negligible and non-noticeable. Also, for leave-on products, the drying time should be fairly fast. In other words, any vehicle for hair treatments should provide a perceivable hair conditioning effect without any stickiness or excessive build-up.

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Footnotes [Rigano 129(5)]

a Sphingony (INCI: Sphinganine), Evonik Industries AG, www.evonik.com

b Baicapil, Provital Group, www.provitalgroup.com

c Capixyl, Lucas Meyer, www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com

Formula 1. Aloe Vera Conditioning Rinse1

Formula 1. Aloe Vera Conditioning Rinse<sup>1</sup>

Both leave-on and rinse-off conditioners employ a variety of ingredients, including cationic surfactants, polymers, emollients and humectants.

Formula 2. Remoisturizing/Deep Penetrating Conditioner6

Formula 2. Remoisturizing/Deep Penetrating Conditioner<sup>6</sup>

Considering all these mechanisms of protection and repair, an example of a moisturizing, deeply penetrating conditioner is shown here.

Formula 3. Hair Loss Treatment Lotion*

Formula 3. Hair Loss Treatment Lotion*

This is an example lotion to treat hair loss. To prepare it: mix A in order at room temperature; prepare B and add with stirring to A; and filter the batch 24 hr later. In this formula, panthenol and biotin is delivered to the scalp by the ethoxydiglycol, and hydrolyzed proteins form a protective coating on hair.

Formula 4. Hair tonic10

Formula 4. Hair tonic<sup>10</sup>

Example hair tonic in which alcohol helps to dissolve the lipophilic vitamins and actives

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