Application/Category Sponsored by
Living Proof Prime Style Extender
Susan Raffy, president of Susan Raffy Consulting, has more than 25 years of experience in the personal care industry, including a number of positions in personal care R&D. Her first position after obtaining her Bachelor of Arts degree in chemistry from the University of California, San Diego, in 1982, was developing pharmaceuticals and nutritional supplements for American McGaw. She also briefly worked as a research assistant in pulmonary medicine at the University of Texas’s Health Science Center/Veterans Administration Hospital before making her foray into cosmetic formulation as associate scientist in the Allercreme Cosmetics division of Alcon Laboratories Inc. in 1985. After a few years at Alcon, Raffy continued formulating at Physicians Formula Cosmetic Inc., where she was a scientist responsible for new product development using innovative raw materials and advanced technology for hypoallergenic skin treatment. In 1990, she joined Aware Products Inc. as director of research and development/quality assurance. Her experience then transitioned to business, with positions as VP of business development/technical sales for GAR Laboratories Inc. and technical sales representative and industry specialist for Lipscomb Chemical Company Inc. Raffy went back to formulating as the director of product development for the beauty division of Guthy-Renker Corp. At the same time, she began teaching at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising, where she was named Outstanding Instructor of the Year. Following, she was president of CTF Concepts Inc. and senior sales manager and technical director for Randall International LP before beginning her consulting business in 2008. Raffy is an active member Society of Cosmetic Chemists, where she has served as chair, summer event coordinator and newsletter editor for the California chapter. She is also an active member of the American Chemical Society and Beauty Industry West.
Water (aqua), Octafluoropentyl Methacrylate (OFPMA), Myristyl Alcohol, Polyacrylate-13, Polysorbate 20, Sorbic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, PPG-2 Myristyl Ether Propionate, Phenoxyethanol, PEG-8 Stearate, Polyisobutene, Citronellol, Fragrance (parfum), Citral, Geraniol, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Limonene.
Is your hair on a diet? Weightless styling products are especially beneficial to those who do not wash their hair daily. These products produce less build-up than traditional styling products, which can leave hair greasy, oily, flat and lifeless. Primers are popular skin care and makeup products, but this is one of the first examples of “primer” for hair. Living Proof’s Prime Style Extender promises to “protect and extend the life of your style twice as long.” This column will review the ingredient listing for functionality and claims substantiation.
The fluorinated acrylic monomer octafluoropentyl methacrylate (OFPMA) is patented for use in hair care preparations and is featured in this lightweight, white cream along with secondary film-former polyacrylate-13. Water is the vehicle/diluent for this o/w emulsion. Myristyl alcohol is an emollient and emulsion stabilizer, and PEG-8 stearate is a co-emulsifier with some conditioning properties. Polyisobutene is a lightweight hydrocarbon emollient used for gloss and smoothing the cuticle. PPG-2 myristyl ether proprionate is also an emollient with some surfactant properties.
The preservative system consists of sorbic acid, caprylyl glycol and phenoxyethanol.
Some of the individual fragrance components are listed along with fragrance--citronellol, citral, geraniol, butylphenyl methylpropional and limonene. The reason the company chose to do this is unclear, as it is not required and does not provide a real marketing value (these ingredients are not recognizable by the average consumer). However, a company might understandably choose to list the fragrance chemicals if they did not want to list “fragrance.” Polysorbate 20 is used to solubilize the fragrance in the emulsion. This product's claims for smoothing, detangling, correcting and perfecting are supported by the ingredients used in the formula.
What are twelve important criteria for the 'ideal' preservative or preservative system? What are seven principles of HACCP? Do you know the twelve properties of 'natural' preservatives? Could you use more information on global regulations?
Be prepared! Keep David Steinberg's new book, Preservatives for Cosmetics, Third Edition, close at hand at the start of your next project.
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