Dyeing to be Natural

By: Katie Schaefer, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine

Posted: June 30, 2009, from the July 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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The natural dyes, however, have a molecular weight of 2,000, which are small enough to enter the hair cuticle. To produce the pigment, the color is set with a mineral salt such as magnesium citrate or calcium carbonate. These salts bond differently with the pigments and thus are chosen to deliver specific shades.

Lasting Reds and More
According to Greaves, PPD-based red pigments are not light stable and thus fade quickly, but natural red dyes are said to last longer. In addition, natural dyes can be removed with a fairly strong acid. Also, since no peroxide or ammonia is used with natural dyes, the hair cuticle is not opened, causing less damage to hair.

Greaves is currently working on additional natural dye technologies, including shampoos and conditioners with tinting capabilities. Although he does not yet have a natural lightening kit, he has a lead on a natural compound that may do this and anticipates looking into natural lightening in the future.

Jeff Greaves is the founder and manager of Food Ingredient Solutions LLC and the founder and president of Advanced Cosmetic Technologies LLC. He obtained his juris doctorate from Pace Law School before holding positions at Marubeni America Corp. and San-Ei Gen F.F.I. Greaves is a member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, the American Chemical Society and the Institute of Food Technologists.