In Sight: The Road to More Effective Ethnic Skin Care

By: Katie Schaefer, Cosmetics & Toiletries

Posted: February 1, 2007, from the February 2007 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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With the banning of hydroquinone, a popular skin lightening ingredient, Obukowho believes research into alternative skin lightening formulations is now very timely.

Looking Forward
Obukowho believes that a partnership between dermatology and cosmetic chemistry may lead to more effective ethnic skin care. “Dermatologist are trained to individually evaluate patients based on their skin type, ethnicity and skin problems and choose ingredients based on that evaluation; this information could greatly benefit cosmetic chemists who are formulating products with little knowledge of their demographic,” said Obukowho. He believes that dermatologists could help formulators to better select the raw materials that are combined in products.

As far as raw materials go, Obukowho does not believe there are enough of them for ethnic skin care products. He noted that there is some research into new and effective raw materials for ethnic skin. An example of such research is recent studies on alternatives to hydroquinone, according to Obukowho, which have uncovered caprylic/capric triglyceride (and) diacetyl boldine and etholine, both of which target the removal of dark spots. Both ingredients have shown clinical data to suggest the effectiveness of these types of ingredients, a move Obukowho wishes more companies would accomplish. “Not too many suppliers have performed clinical studies on ethnic skin,” said Obukowho. In general, Obukowho believes there is absolutely a lack of skin care ingredients made for the ethnic population. With more research and better formulation, however, he is confident that will change.