O/W Mascara

February 15, 2006 | By: Rachel Chapman
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Title: O/W Mascara
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Water (aqua) 46.25
Xanthan gum (Keltrol F, Kelco) 0.15
Magnesium aluminum silicate (Veegum HV Granules, RT Vanderbilt) 0.55
Disodium EDTA (Dissolve NA-2, Akzo Nobel) 0.05
Methylparaben 0.30
Triethanolamine, 99% 0.50
Butylene glycol 1.00
Iron oxides (and) butylene glycol (Black Iron Oxide C7133, 50% dispersed in Butylene Glycol, LCW) 18.00
Cyclomethicone (DC 345 Fluid,Dow Corning) 5.00
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone (DC 5225C Formulation Aid, Dow Corning) 1.00
Cera alba (beeswax) (White Beeswax, Ross) 8.00
Stearic acid 2.00
Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate (Arlacel 165, Uniqema Americas) 2.00
Stearyl alcohol (Lipocol S, Lipo Chemicals) 2.00
Polyisobutene (and) isododecane (Permethyl 98B, Presperse, Inc.) 4.00
Phenoxyethanol 1.00
VP/Eicosane copolymer (Ganex V-220, ISP) 4.00
Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax (Carnauba Wax #1, Ross) 4.00
Propylparaben 0.20

 Procedure: In a suitable kettle, combine the A one a time. Mix until completely dissolved When A is completely dissolved, heat to 75°C with a propeller mixer. At 75°C, add B and mix well. In a separate vessel, weigh C and begin heating to 80°–85°C. Mix until completely melted. When C is at 80°–85°C and uniform, slowly add to AB with adequate mixing. Mix for 15 min and begin slow cooling. Continue mixing batch with good agitation. When batch begins to thicken, switch to side wiper or paddle mixing. Continue cooling to 25°C. When batch is at RT, store in appropriate containers.