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Water-Resistant Mascara Formula

Posted: February 6, 2006

Company: Presperse

A.
Water (aqua) 56.80
B.
Xanthan gum (Keltrol, Kelco) 0.50
C.
Methylparaben 0.20
Silica (Spheron N-2000, Presperse) 2.00
Iron oxide (Soft-Tek C33-7734, Sun Chemical) 7.00
Triethanolamine 99% 1.00
D.
Carnauba wax 8.00
Cera alba (beeswax) 4.00
Polyisobutene (Permethyl104A, Presperse) 4.00
Stearic acid 5.00
Glyceryl stearate (Lipo GMS 450, Lipo) 1.00
Propylparaben 0.20
Candellila wax 4.00
E.
Water (aqua) 1.00
Imidazolidinyl urea (Germall 115, ISP) 0.30
F.
Dimethicone crosspolymer-3 (and) isododecane (Jessilc IDD, Jeen International) 5.00

Procedure: In a suitable kettle, slowly B in a vortex of A. Disperse completely. Pre-mix C by blending, mixing and pulverizing in a ribbon type blender until uniformly dispersed. Start heating C to 60ºC -70ºC. While the batch is at constant agitation, add AB a little at a time to C. Hold the temperature for 10 min and constantly mix well. Homo-mix the batch for 5 min. Change the mixing to propeller mixing. In a separate kettle, combine D ingredients and heat to 80ºC-84ºC. Heat ABC similarly to D, mixing slowly to dearate the batch and add D to ABC. Mix well and cool batch until it reaches to 48ºC. Add pre-mixed E and then F. Mix the batch until uniform with paddle mixer and continue cooling to 35ºC -30ºC. Pour into appropriate containers.