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W/O Makeup Foundation

Posted: January 4, 2006

Company: Schülke & Mayr

A.
Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (and) cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone (and) hexyl laurate (Abil WE 09, Degussa Care Specialties) 5.00%
Isoeicosane (Permethyl 120A (Presperse) 5.00
Polyisobutene (Permethyl 104A (Presperse) 1.00
Pentaerythrityl tetrabehenate (Liponate PB-4, Lipo Chemicals) 1.00
Isododecane (and) butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymer (Versagel MD 500, Penreco) 10.00
Tricontanyl PVP (Ganex WP 660, ISP) 1.00
Orbignya oleifera seed oil (Babassu Oil, Kama International) 1.00
B.
Isododecane (Permethyl 99A, Presperse) 15.00
C.
Water (aqua) 42.35
Butylene glycol 1.00
Sodium chloride 1.00
D.
Silica (Spheron N-2000, Presperse) 5.00
Mica (Sericite PHN, Presperse) 3.00
Titanium dioxide (A-8110 Titanium Dioxide (oil dispersible), Color Techniques) 5.00
Iron oxides (A-1226 Iron Oxide Red, Color Techniques) 0.60
Iron oxides (A-1301 Iron Oxide Yellow, Color Techniques) 1.20
Iron oxides (A-1405 Iron Oxide Black, Color Techniques) 0.35
Phenoxyethanol 1.00
Ethylhexylglycerin (Sensiva SC 50, Schülke & Mayr) 0.50

Procedure: Weigh A in a suitable vessel and heat to 75°C while mixing until uniform. Add B to A and allow to cool to 60°C. Combine C in a separate vessel, mix and heat to 40°C until clear and uniform. Grind D together until there are NO pigment specks present. Add D o AB and mix until uniform. At the proper temperature and under propeller mixing, slowly add half of C to ABC. Once half has been added, the transfer rate can be increased to add the remaining C. Maintain 60°C for 15 min and begin cooling the batch to 40°C. At 40°C, insert a Silverson-type mixer or a homogenizer into the batch and mix the batch down to 35°C. At 35°C, remove the homogenizer. Continue cooling the batch to 25°C using a propeller mixer. Store the batch in suiitable airtight containers until ready for filling.