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Urban Decay Naked Skin
It’s fall, so it is time for a makeup makeover, right? Urban Decay promises that its Naked Skin foundation allows the consumer to feel like they are not wearing makeup. It “blurs imperfections” for a soft-focus finish and offers “buildable” coverage. The lightweight foundation nourishes skin with lots of cosmeceutical “goodies,” something we have all come to expect—multifunctional cosmetics. This column reviews the ingredient listing for claims substantiation and functionality.
The foundation is a w/s system, with the silicone phase comprising cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, dimethicone and PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone. The emulsifiers are self-emulsifying dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosspolymer and dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer, both providing a silky, matte finish. Silica also contributes to the matte finish by providing oil absorption.
Everything listed after sodium chloride is probably present in the formula at less than 1%. The salt helps stabilize this unique emulsion by inhibiting the formation of micelles, which could lead to emulsion inversion. The aqueous phase also contains the moisturizers butylene glycol and glycerin. A low percentage of the amino acid surfactants disodium cocoyl glutamate and sodium cocoyl glutamate aids spreadability and provides softness.
The pigment dispersions are in cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, hexyl laurate and polyglyceryl-4 isostearate. Isopropyl titanium triisostearate is a patented surface treatment technology for the pigments that helps prevent color streaking. Both tribehenin, which helps to stabilize the oil phase, and carbomer, which stabilizes the water phase, are at low percentages since this type of system is inherently very stable.
The cosmeceutical or “bioactive” ingredients include Camellia oleifera (green tea) leaf extract, which is an antioxidant but does not necessarily promote collagen production in the skin. Palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 comprise the anti-wrinkle complex Matrixyl 3000, which increases skin’s elasticity. Litchi chinensis pericarp (lychee) extract protects the skin from dehydration, oxidative stress and accelerated aging. “Super-humectant” sodium hyaluronate provides hydration for a smooth and youthful appearance. Also included are tocopheryl acetate, vitamin E and tetrahexadecyl ascorbate (vitamin C), which are ubiquitously used in skin care today.
Coloring the Cosmetic World: Using Pigments in Decorative Cosmetic Formulations covers the four dimensions to selecting colors for cosmetics. Take note of the chapter on color stability which describes the various colorants you will use in your product and includes a chart listing compatibility of colorants with a number of solvents. Photos rendered in full masstone color!
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