In Sight: Blush Just Got Smarter

By: Katie Schaefer, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine

Posted: December 3, 2007, from the December 2007 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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The material considered the energy source was incorporated for its ability to produce adenosine triphosphate (ATP) to enhance microcirculation. In this case, the material is derived from plankton extract, which provides both energy and a nutritional source.

Antioxidants were needed to prevent biological oxidation due to metabolism or the consumption of energy. “Goji berry extract is also a famous antioxidant and immune system enhancer,” said Joo, who chose the extract for its antioxidant benefits only to discover later that it also aided microcirculation. In addition to goji berry, pomegranate seed extract and vitamin C are included as antioxidants.

The microcirculation enhancer is a combination of goji berry extract and ginkgo leaf extract. “Ginkgo leaf extract has been used in microcirculatory medicine for a long time. There are also reports that goji berry extract has a microcirculation effect, in addition to its antioxidation effect,” said Joo.

The final element is the pigment, specifically Red 27 (CI 45410), which Joo chose since it is triggered by skin pH and moisture to create a visual effect. “The pigment reacts with protons in the skin and the pigment’s chemical structure (resonance) is changed so that the visual color changes from white to pink,” explained Joo.

The Magic Behind the Makeup
Curious consumers wonder how the product varies when applied to different skin tones, as the product claims. The pigment begins as a benzene ring that is clear or white. Energy through UV light, pH and water then change the chemical structure of the pigment. That change in structure further changes conjugation to alter light absorbance and finally the visual color to pink/red.