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Energizing Cells for More Youthful Skin
By: Katie Anderson, Cosmetics & Toiletries
Posted: September 3, 2013, from the September 2013 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.
Mary Begovic Johnson
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A profound finding, according to Johnson, is that increased energy levels allow for greater ingredient efficacy. “Increased natural energy levels in the mitochondria allow cells to respond much more quickly and fully to anti-aging therapies,” noted Johnson.
To increase anti-aging ingredient efficacy, the R&D team also had to invert the emulsion. Johnson noted that many formulas on the market today, including P&G’s previous Regenerist line, are w/s because silicone provides a velvety skin feel. However, “most anti-aging ingredients such as niacinamide are water-soluble. Therefore, they must travel from the water phase through the silicone to get to the skin, which decreases the efficiency of penetration,” she explained. Her team flipped the formulation for better efficacy. “When the emulsion was flipped to a s/w emulsion, the anti-aging ingredients were right next to the skin, with increased the penetration of niacinamide up to 55%.”
The research on cellular bioenergetics is a long-term commitment, according to Johnson, which is why P&G purchased another Seahorse device. The team plans to look closer at environmental factors affecting cell energy and replicate them to find out what is accelerating this loss. They also plan to use the new instrumentation to identify new reenergizing ingredients. While the first study focused on texture and wrinkle changes in skin, future studies will investigate discoloration, which energy is hypothesized to affect.