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Energizing Cells for More Youthful Skin
By: Katie Anderson, Cosmetics & Toiletries
Posted: September 3, 2013, from the September 2013 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.
Mary Begovic Johnson
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“In a 20-year old, the skin was much more energized and the image was brighter. This study showed a steady decline in bioenergy production from the early 20s through the 60s,” Johnson added.
The “beauty of the system,” according to Johnson, is that you can take in vitro skin cell models and culture them with different ingredients, then use the Seahorse device to determine which ingredients increase energy production. The team did just that with help from a group of scientists from BASF and together, they identified a complex of ingredients to counteract the decline in energy production in aging skin.
Formulating for Energy
The resulting BioEnergetics Complex comprises niacinamide, PAL-KTTKS and sodium PEG-7 olive oil carboxylate, and prevents the stress-induced decrease of energy in older cells. “Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is essential to skin health and is a precursor to energy production,” said Johnson. It is included to produce energy in aged cells.
However, Johnson noted that as part of the Mitochondrial Theory of Aging, with the production of energy also comes the production of free radicals. “The olive oil derivative [therefore] gives cells the ability to mop up these free radicals. It increases the skin’s antioxidant response element, which increases the cell’s ability to provide antioxidant protection,” explained Johnson. Meanwhile, Pal-KTTKS signals the cell to make more collagen and elastin.
These three ingredients are included in the reformulated Olay Regenerist line; however, a dill compound (see Dill Compound) is added to the Microsculpting products to maintain elastin quality. “[The dill compound] boosts energy even further, but also stimulates the enzymes that tell skin to make quality elastin.”