Consumer Perspective—Eye Care

By: Katerina Steventon, PhD, FaceWorkshops

Posted: October 1, 2012, from the October 2012 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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Interestingly, research has shown an increase in wrinkling in the afternoon,⁹ highlighting the importance of nighttime application of eye care to enable skin repair during sleep. This increase in wrinkling is due to the shift in tissue fluids, therefore eye care product application is appropriate at a time when the body rests. Conversely, eye care during the day is focused on protection—fighting sun exposure, free radicals, etc.

Signs of Fatigue

The appearance of the eye area often reveals the true state of one’s health, particularly when stressed, tired or ill. A “fresh look” is often sought by the consumer but aging, environmental influences and constant movement of the eyelids make the thin skin in this area unable to provide structural support, weakening the area. The fine and dense capillary network becomes fragile and the lymphatic system deficient, leading to dark circles and puffiness.¹⁰ Market data suggests that 40% of U.S. women and 19% of men are concerned about their dark under-eye circles and sunken eyes.¹¹

To address these concerns, several cosmetic actives have been developed. For example, one based on Albizia julibrissin bark is designed to target glycation^a and claims to visibly reduce signs of fatigue such as a dull, drawn eye area and dark circles. The company literature demonstrates a 44% reduction of the “visible tired look” (subjective assessment) after applying a cream containing the active in a two-month clinical study.

To provide microrelief in the eye area and reduce smile lines, another active recently launched has an instant tightening and lifting effect^b. It contains a lyophilisate of the Microalga porphyridium cruentum embedded in a film matrix. The temporary tightening effect is noticeable immediately, and the company claims a 74% reduction of fine eye wrinkles within one hour, which lasts for several hours.

Application technologies in eye care also often involve roller balls. The cooling effect and light pressure, combined with the soft massaging movement in the direction of facial lymph nodes, help to improve the slow lymphatic flow in the under-eye area and reduce puffiness. Retracing the eye area with an applicator encourages eye care compliance.

Conclusion