Formula Anatomy Deciphered: Anti-wrinkle Skin Care

By: Eric Abrutyn, TPC2 Advisors Ltd.

Posted: February 3, 2011, from the February 2011 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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Reviva Labs Collagen-Fibre Eye Pads with Myoxinol: These eye pads (see Figure 3 and Table 3) are said to contain 100% pure, freeze- dried collagen, which is reported to impart quick, Botox-like benefits to skin; instantly hydrate to help diminish wrinkles, bags, puffiness or dark circles; and relax the under-eye tissue to aid anti-wrinkle action. Myoxinol extracted from the hibiscus flower is said to relax facial wrinkles while the collagen plumps and smoothes the skin.

Formulator Beware

Anti-wrinkle skin products are a complex group with strong claims to “turn back the clock” on skin damage and sagging skin. The key to their success lies in the daily moisturization and hydration of skin. It is therefore important to understand how to formulate an aesthetically pleasing product that conveys moisture or the feeling of moisture to skin, while tightening and hiding fine lines. Regarding anti-wrinkle biological actives, it is difficult to say if they are incorporated in sufficient amounts to work on the cellular level and are bio-available for transport to the critical sites within skin’s physiology. Formulators must ask themselves: Is the plant part being used the right plant part? Are the critical functional ingredients in the plant being delivered in sufficient quantities to provide physiological effects? Also, is enough of the botanical incorporated into the finished formula to actually work, or is the botanical present merely for claim purposes—or for consumer “reason-to-believe” expectations?

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References
Send e-mail to tpc2advisors@yahoo.com.
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