Formula Anatomy Deciphered: Anti-wrinkle Skin Care

By: Eric Abrutyn, TPC2 Advisors Ltd.

Posted: February 3, 2011, from the February 2011 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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Antioxidants can be delivered as water-soluble or oil-soluble ingredients, although oil- or lipid-soluble derivatives can absorb more effectively into the stratum corneum. Antioxidants can assist in several capacities, including: reducing fine lines and wrinkles, supporting cell regeneration, evening out skin pigmentation, mitigating psoriasis effects, supporting a healthy immune system and stimulating collagen production.

Antioxidants can include vitamins such as retinol and esters, ascorbic acid and esters, tocopherol and esters and cholecalcipherol, amino acids/peptides such as acetyl hexapeptide-22 and decapeptide-6, botanical extracts, and carboxylic acids among a multitude of others (see Antioxidants on Page 84). An extended antioxidant list can be found in the Personal Care Product Council’s Infobase.⁸

Finished Antiaging Products

There are many current anti-wrinkle products on the market. The following three are featured to demonstrate claim positioning as well as how specific ingredients are incorporated to support these claims. The information presented is taken from publicly available sources and is included for illustrative purposes only. The estimated ingredient ranges are provided as a starting point from which formulators can build their own unique formulas.

Bottega Verde Mielexpertise Intense Antiaging Eye Contour Cream: The cream shown in Figure 1 and Table 1 on Page 86 is described as an intensive, fast-absorbing, antiaging eye contour cream featuring a re-densifying, anti-wrinkle formula enriched with the company’s patented ingredients Cuore di Miele (honey essence) and Pluridefence, which are claimed to have revitalizing, antioxidant and firming effects to leave skin soft and radiant and protect against pollution.

Garnier Nutritioniste Ultra-Lift Anti-Wrinkle Firming Eye Cream: This eye cream (see Figure 2 and Table 2) is formulated with a blend of natural linoleic acid from safflower with retinyl acetate to lift the look of wrinkles; rice protein to fortify skin’s structure; and argan extract to make skin look firmer. According to the manufacturer, the cream instantly smooths and softens the delicate eye area, firming fine lines and lifting wrinkles.