Formula Anatomy Deciphered: Anti-wrinkle Skin Care

By: Eric Abrutyn, TPC2 Advisors Ltd.

Posted: February 3, 2011, from the February 2011 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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Antiaging hyaluronic acid cream: The present invention relates to a topical anti-wrinkle and antiaging moisturizing cream designed to repair and restore human adult skin to a more youthful state.⁵ The moisturizer is a water-based blend of high molecular weight (HMW) hyaluronic acid (HA), 0.5–2.0 million Daltons, and low molecular weight HA oligosaccharides, i.e., small HA fragments less than 12,000 Daltons. An equal mixture of HMW HA and HA oligosaccharides at concentrations of 0.1–0.2% was found to provide the moisturizer with the ability to repair and rejuvenate adult human skin.

Anti-wrinkle oat polysaccharides: This invention relates to a method for obtaining an active ingredient that imparts an immediate anti-wrinkle and skin-tensing effect, characterized by extracting and purifying HMW polysaccharides from oat bran fibers or grains and stabilizing the polysaccharides in water.⁶ The method comprises at least two essential stages: a stage for solubilization of oat bran, fibers or seeds in a basic solution, and a stage of successive or simultaneous enzymatic hydrolysis(es) of polysaccharides that are contained in the oat bran, fibers or seeds, so as to facilitate their solubilization without disrupting their molecular structure. The invention also relates to the product obtained, to its uses, and to cosmetic compositions containing it.

Anti-wrinkle testing using ADAM: It is well-known that a group of membrane metalloproteases called A disintegrin and metalloprotease (ADAM), as well as matrix metalloprotease (MMP), cut various growth factors including heparin-binding epidermal growth factor (HB-EGF) and tumor necrosis factor (TNF), cytokines and many other membrane proteins from the cell surface and release them from the cell, resulting in the proliferation and differentiation of cells by those growth factors.⁷ Further, expression/release from the cell membrane of growth factors HB-EGF, TNF-alpha and cytokines are promoted by different stimuli, including UV light, oxidization and osmotic pressure. Signals for proliferation, differentiation, etc., are transmitted to the cells by the autocrine and paracrine mechanisms, leading to skin proliferation and thickening.

The present inventors have established a method whereby a test substance is applied to the skin, skin tissue or human cell; the enzymatic activity of the ADAM or gene expression level is detected; and the anti-wrinkle effect of the substance is assessed using the generation of the ADAM enzyme or gene expression as an index. Also described is an anti-wrinkle agent for ameliorating the particularly fine wrinkles developed when the skin’s barrier function is decreased by dryness. In addition, an anti-wrinkle agent or ADAM inhibitor is disclosed comprising an alkyl glucoside, wherein the alkyl group is represented by a linear or branched alkyl group with 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

Featured Ingredient: Antioxidants

Antioxidants are a popular anti-wrinkle treatment category. They can be derived from natural sources or synthetically manufactured. Their key performance criterion is to counteract free radicals that can mutate skin cells. Sources of these free radicals are environmental, such as smoke, sun exposure or diet. Use of antioxidants can mitigate skin damage to allow for healing, as well as stimulate new collagen production.