Formula Anatomy Deciphered: Anti-wrinkle Skin Care

By: Eric Abrutyn, TPC2 Advisors Ltd.

Posted: February 3, 2011, from the February 2011 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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The past several months have seen various innovative patents issued in relation to the antiaging category. Highlighted here are but a few, including those based on hydration, skin rejuvenation, collagen maintenance, repair and skin tensing, as well as one describing anti-wrinkle testing.

Recent Antiaging Patents

Endogenous hydration and aging: This invention¹ is based on the hypothesis of Wisser and Gallagher² that there is a relationship between the oxidative processes in skin and its degree of hydration. The inventors postulated that they could increase the effectiveness of antioxidants by using the cell water and hydrating molecules present within the skin. This approach would theoretically curb the oxidative process, and by maintaining good hydration in the surface layers of the skin, epidermis and horny layer, potentially improve the effectiveness of endogenous antioxidant molecules, or of cosmetic agents exhibiting an antioxidant effect.

In a preferred embodiment of this invention, plant extracts that are rich in flavonoids, isoflavonoids and/or anthocyanins, rose extract in particular, were used to confer antioxidant properties to protect against reactive oxygen species (ROS), which are responsible for oxidative stress. This invention also relates to an antiaging composition including a combination of cosmetic active agents.

Three-step skin rejuvenation: This patent discloses a three-step skin rejuvenation system³ involving a) the application of a booster product to activate the skin area to be treated; b) an exfoliant; and c) a nano-additive product for enhancing the penetration of the booster product and exfoliating product inside the skin area. Both the booster and exfoliant contain the active ingredients ferulic acid and phloretin; in addition, the exfoliant is formulated with fruit acids or alpha hydroxy acids.

Matrine and oxymatrine antiaging: This invention relates to a composition comprising the active ingredients matrine and oxymatrine for improving skin conditions such as wrinkles, skin pigmentation and hair loss.⁴ These materials reportedly have lower cytotoxicity than retinol as anti-wrinkle agents, and they inhibit collagenase activity and promote collagen biosynthesis at the molecular level, contributing to their efficacy in the improvement of skin wrinkles. In addition, both matrine and oxymatrine have been found to: exhibit an inhibitory effect on melanin production by inhibiting intracellular tyrosinase activity, improve the effects of UV-induced skin damage, promote skin growth and prevent hair loss.