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Sep 04, 2012 | 11:10 AM CDT
A Review of Skin Hypopigmentation and Contemporary Strategies to Achieve an Even Skin Tone
By: Cecilia Teran, Durant Scholz, Julie Cava, Kath…
Whether formulating for Asia, North America, Europe or Latin America, the cosmetic chemist will face one common demand in all these markets: an even skin tone. This article provides an overview of chemical and biological agents capable of causing hypopigmentation via interactions through different stages of the melanogenic pathway.
Sep 04, 2012 | 11:02 AM CDT
Ingredient Profile—Mica
By: Michael J. Fevola, PhD, Johnson & Johnson
Mica is an inorganic material found in a wide variety of cosmetic and personal care products. Its use has been reported in more than 7,100 products, making it one of the most important mineral ingredients used in cosmetics.
Aug 15, 2012 | 01:13 PM CDT
Polyacrylate-33 for Thickening and Suspending in Low Surfactant Cleansers
By: Monique Adamy, Anne-France Leron, Charles Phan…
Described herein is a hydrophobically-modified acrylic copolymer, polyacrylate-33, which is designed for low-to-medium surfactant-containing cleansers. The ingredient is shown to display high thickening efficiency and good suspension properties and shear-thinning rheology in sulfate-based and sulfate-free chassis. Further, it enables transparent formulations in the presence of salt with improved foaming and sensorial properties.
Aug 15, 2012 | 01:07 PM CDT
PIT Versus PIF for the Rational Formulation of Emulsions
By: Steven Abbott, PhD, Steven Abbott TCNF Ltd. an…
This article deliberately pushes the boundaries for cosmetics scientists, showing how the much-used phase inversion temperature (PIT) technique is a limiting special case of a more versatile, rational approach to surfactant optimization: HLD-NAC. This simple way of understanding the basic interactions within emulsion formulations can be generalized to create totally new ways of formulating stable emulsions.
Aug 15, 2012 | 12:36 PM CDT
Ingredient Profile: Decyl Glucoside
By: Mike Fevola, Johnson & Johnson
Alkyl polyglucoside (APG) surfactants continue to be a popular choice of formulators seeking to improve the sustainability of cleansing products for personal care, hard surface cleaning, dishwashing, laundry, and industrial/institutional applications.
Jul 03, 2012 | 03:00 PM CDT
Large-scale Screenings of Botanical Ingredients: Challenges and Opportunities
By: Patricia da Luz Moreira, PhD, Natura Inova&cce…
Botanical ingredients are interesting for their unique and complementary chemical diversities yet they are criticized for these very traits, which make quality assurance, reproducibility and good phytochemical characterization—required for successful high throughput screening, difficult. This article discusses these challenges as well as the benefits of large-scale screenings of botanical extracts that are currently used or developed for cosmetic product development.
Jul 03, 2012 | 02:51 PM CDT
A Synthetic Tissue-based In vitro Ocular Irritation Assay
By: Stewart J. Lebrun, Lebrun Labs, CA USA
The testing of personal care products for ocular irritancy ensures their safety, proper labeling and consumer satisfaction. In relation, there is a current demand for animal-alternative tests. Thus, described here is a method using synthetic tissue to test for mild, moderate and severe ocular irritation, including data validating this method as an effective means to screen products.
Jul 03, 2012 | 02:46 PM CDT
From Elastin to Elastic Fibers, Part I: The In vitro Effects of a Natural Dipeptide on the Biological Cascade
By: Philippe Mondon and Ada Andre - Sederma, Franc…
The peptide N-Acetyl-Tyr-Arg-Hexadecylester (NATAH) was found to stimulate the synthesis of tropoelastin in cultured human dermal fibroblasts as well as augment the activity of all important actors in the assembly of elastic fibers, including Fibrillin 1, Fibulin 5, Decorin, LOX and Transglutaminase, among others. This is shown here both in monolayer cell cultures and in a 3D skin model.
Jul 03, 2012 | 02:39 PM CDT
Formula Anatomy Deciphered—Foot Care
By: Luigi Rigano, PhD, Institute of Skin and Produ…
Many dermatological diseases such as athlete’s foot occur because the feet spend long spans of time in a warm, dark and humid environment. While there are several foot diseases related to diabetes, this column will focus on the development of foot care formulae designed for cosmetic treatments.
Jul 03, 2012 | 02:23 PM CDT
A Dermatological View—Exploring Potential Differences in Percutaneous Penetration and Barrier Function Between Individuals of Different Ethnicity or Skin Color
By: Elodie Metral and Howard I. Maibach, MD, Unive…
The current understanding of percutaneous penetration and parameters that can influence it remains a sub judice area. Ethnicity or pigmentation, for instance, can be implied in percutaneous absorption for which several studies, described here, have been conducted to clarify their roles.