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Mar 05, 2013 | 11:02 AM CST
Formula Anatomy Deciphered—Lip Balms
By: Luigi Rigano, PhD, Studio Rigano Industrial Co…
Lip balms or salves constitute a special category of protecting and soothing cosmetics. They are intended to be applied to the lip pseudo-mucosa to relieve the signs and symptoms of skin dryness and chapping. Their function and formulation are described here.
Mar 05, 2013 | 10:31 AM CST
A Dermatological View—Innovations in Hyaluronic Acid
By: Howard I. Maibach, MD, University of Californi…
HA is critically important to dermatologists and to cosmetic scientists, as it maintains the moisture in skin, and loss of accessible HA results in wrinkling and changes associated with aging. Replacement of such HA is the goal of many cosmetic and cosmeceutical techniques and reagents.
Mar 05, 2013 | 10:23 AM CST
Technology Transfer—Silencing RNA for Cosmetic Effects
By: Steven Isaacman, PhD, Nanometics LLC; Michael …
RNA interference (RNAi) is a gene-silencing technique that inhibits gene expression by causing the intracellular degradation of mRNA molecules. Since first reported in 1998, RNAi has sparked a revolution in molecular biology and has been employed in a myriad of biological contexts for the systematic evaluation of gene function.
Feb 01, 2013 | 02:54 PM CST
Penetration of Cosmetics Into and Through the Stratum Corneum
By: Ada Polla, Alchimie Forever
The penetration routes of substances through the stratum corneum and how these transport pathways function are becoming better understood. Despite this progress, however, the penetration mechanisms of cosmetic formulations remain mysterious. This overview presents current knowledge on the various pathways of penetration, and suggests that even if cosmetic formulations penetrate no deeper than the surface, their efficacy may still be optimal.
Feb 01, 2013 | 02:51 PM CST
A Dermatological View—Interpreting Placebo Response in Clinical Trials for Psoriasis
By: Howard I. Maibach, MD, University of Californi…
By comparing response rates of placebo versus active drug groups in psoriasis RCTs evaluating biologic agents, the authors of this column sought to clarify factors contributing to placebo responses and their implications in improving clinical trial design to determine more accurate drug efficacies.
Feb 01, 2013 | 02:38 PM CST
Development of a Novel, Soothing Tissue Incorporating Phase-change Materials
By: Jeffery R. Seidling; Scott W. Wenzel; Corey C…
Frequent and repetitive tissue use can lead to inflammation of the nasal area. While technologies were already marketed to help minimize and prevent further irritation, none had targeted the heat and redness associated with an already inflamed nose. This presented a market need but several formulating challenges. Described here are the steps taken to find a practical solution to these challenges.
Feb 01, 2013 | 02:28 PM CST
Formula Anatomy Deciphered—BB Creams
By: Luigi Rigano, PhD, Studio Rigano Industrial Co…
BB stands for “blemish balm” in Asia or “beauty balm” in some parts of Europe. It is defined loosely as a product that combines serum, moisturizer, base cream, foundation and sunscreen in one.
Jan 04, 2013 | 12:43 PM CST
Consumer Perception of Fine Lines and Wrinkles Assessed by Qualitative Methods
By: Rosanna Mootoo, Stephanie Basile, Cristina St…
There are varying definitions, associations and overall impressions of fine lines and wrinkles among different consumer segments. The findings of this study offer invaluable insight into consumers’ opinions, and by qualitative in-depth interviews, they provide a well-defined vernacular for aging descriptors. This language is critical for developmental research, consumer evaluation and marketing within the cosmetic industry.
Jan 04, 2013 | 12:15 PM CST
A Dermatological View—Scalp Irritation From Hair Care Chemicals
By: Hongbo Zhai, MD, and Howard I. Maibach, MD, Un…
While scalp irritation also can be caused by contact with physical or biological agents, this column will discuss the irritation resulting from hair chemicals. The desire for a specific hairstyle or color can render the scalp exposed to different hair chemicals that may result to scalp irritation.
Jan 04, 2013 | 10:04 AM CST
Structured Surfactant Systems for Improved Lasting Deposition of Perfume on Skin and Hair
By: Caroline Mabille, PhD, Rhodia Aubervilliers R…
To maximize perfume delivery from structured cleansing formulations, the fragrance must be introduced before structuring the formulation into multilamellar vesicles. Structured formulations fragranced in such a way are shown here to improve perfume deposition and duration versus micellar systems, with no negative impact on perfume burst during use.