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Aug 02, 2013 | 02:41 PM CDT
Clean and Green: A Review of Modern Day Surfactants and Emulsifiers
By: Judi Beerling, Organic Monitor Ltd.; and Tony …
Many certified organic shampoos and body washes use soaps such as potassium cocoate as their primary cleansing agent, partially due to a lack of suitable, organically approved foaming alternatives. This article reviews the use of modern surfactants and emulsifiers developed based on a green and eco-conscious philosophy.
Aug 02, 2013 | 02:27 PM CDT
What it Means to be 'Green'
By: Arthur Georgalas, Georgalas Endeavors
Formulators of natural personal care products have the same lament as Kermit the Frog—i.e., “It’s not easy being green.” So before proceeding into the ever-unpredictable product development process, claims must be established as to what the final product aims to fulfill—especially in order to direct efforts toward the desired “green” claim for sustainable, natural, organic, etc.
Aug 02, 2013 | 01:39 PM CDT
Chinese Licorice Extract for Anti-aging, Antibacterial and Breath-freshening Effects
By: Stefan Gafner, PhD, Tom’s of Maine
This article reviews in vitro studies that have found Chinese licorice extract to impart potent antibacterial and soothing properties, which make it an interesting candidate for applications in oral and personal care. Further, a clinical study is described in brief, assessing the ability of a supercritical CO2 extract from Chinese licorice to impart breath-freshening properties.
Aug 02, 2013 | 12:17 PM CDT
Caprylyl Glycol/Phenethyl Alcohol Blend for Alternative Preservation of Cosmetics
By: Paola Ziosi, Stefano Manfredini, Alberta Vandi…
In recent years, the safety of traditional preservatives has been called into question. Therefore, there is a need for alternatives that are effective, safe and sustainable—and that are non-controversial. In response, the present work investigates a mixture of caprylyl glycol and phenethyl alcohol, which is shown to provide antimicrobial activity in various skin and hair care formulations.
Aug 02, 2013 | 12:09 PM CDT
Sustainable Ingredients and Innovation in Cosmetics
By: Giorgio Dell’Acqua, PhD; and Giuseppe Calloni,…
Demands for innovation and nature in personal care products have, until now, experienced parallel growth according to consumer perception; i.e., the need for efficacy and the need for purity. Considering these diverse views, this article explores how it is possible to create products that satisfy both via sustainability; bringing natural sourcing to ingredients that are innovative and scientifically proven.
Jul 02, 2013 | 10:24 AM CDT
Formulation Fantasies: A Discussion
By: Jonathan Hadgraft and Majella E. Lane, Univers…
Numerous claims made in the popular press misrepresent the facts about formulations, and cosmetic science is not well-served by this. Here, the authors examine a number of such statements. The influence of skin creams and formulations on the penetration of actives must be communicated in a responsible manner to the public if the industry is to banish prevalent myths.
Jul 02, 2013 | 10:17 AM CDT
Deciphering Baby Cream Formulas
By: Luigi Rigano, PhD, Studio Rigano Industrial Co…
Formulators of personal care products for children are faced with the difficult task of creating products with maximum care and minimum risk, all while trying to be innovative. Infant skin is different from adult skin in many ways. First of all, it is characterized by a immature stratum corneum with a higher moisture content and looser structure, compared with adult skin.
Jul 02, 2013 | 10:08 AM CDT
The Future of Hair Dyes Under the New EU Regulation: A Discussion
By: Robert J.W. Hefford, Independent Cosmetic Advi…
The “recast” of the 1976 Cosmetics Directive was intended to make things simpler, but does it? This article reviews and comments on the EU’s regulatory position on hair dyes, as of the first half of 2013.
Jul 01, 2013 | 04:35 PM CDT
UV Transmission Assessment: Influence of Temperature on Substrate Surface
By: Sébastien Miksa, Dominique Lutz and Céline Guy…
This work evaluates the impact of temperature on test substrate surfaces during the application, spreading and drying steps of the in vitro method to measure ultraviolet (UV) transmission. The authors work in a range between 20°C and 35°C, and demonstrate that controlling temperature is a key test parameter that should be strictly controlled to ensure reliability.
May 31, 2013 | 11:41 AM CDT
Sustainable Ingredients Science: Natural Oils
By: Giorgio Dell'Acqua, PhD
However, the growing market demand for natural alternatives to synthetic is pushing brands to continue to consider the use of natural oils in their formulations.