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New in Formulating (page 5 of 66)
Dec 04, 2012 | 11:30 AM CST
Formulating With Naturals—Hair Conditioning
By: Art Georgalas, Georgalas Endeavors
This column proposes that the current natural and organic hair conditioner market can de divided into two types—those that are effective but use technology considered suspect under most natural certifications, i.e., “greenwashed,” and those that are more compliant with natural and organic certification but are found by consumers to have performance gaps
Dec 04, 2012 | 10:55 AM CST
A Dermatological View—Moisturizers: Evidence for Efficacy
By: Nava P. Greenfield, Yale School of Medicine; a…
Despite their widespread use and applications, the scientific literature on moisturizers lacks strong evidence to support dermatological use. This article explores current literature on the efficacy of moisturizers to help the industry understand their mechanisms and role in treatment.
Nov 01, 2012 | 03:42 PM CDT
A Hydrophilic Silicone Elastomer for Broader Formulating Flexibility
By: Isabelle Van Reeth and Xinyan R. Bao, Dow Corn…
Silicone elastomers for personal care have evolved from cross-linked silicone polymers in silicone fluid carriers, to materials with broader organic compatibility in organic solvents. Recently, hydrophilic properties have been added, which are shown here to enable the incorporation of high levels of water, polar solvents and actives while maintaining organic compatibility and unique sensory characteristics.
Nov 01, 2012 | 03:20 PM CDT
Formula Anatomy Deciphered—Hair Relaxers and Straighteners
By: Luigi Rigano, PhD, Studio Rigano Industrial Co…
Many products currently on the hair care market relate to a woman’s attempt to partially or completely modify her curly, frizzy and tangled hair. Hair straightening and hair relaxing formulations have been invented to achieve the desire for straight hair.
Nov 01, 2012 | 02:04 PM CDT
Characterizing and Evaluating the Effectiveness of Volcanic Pumice Exfoliants
By: M Estanqueiro (MD), G Bossolani, MH Amaral (Ph…
Pumice has a recognized application as an abrasive agent to promote exfoliation of the skin. In this study, different particle size fractions of pumice sampled from several geologic occurrences in São Miguel’s island, the Azores archipelago, were used in the preparation of exfoliation formulations. Gels and soap were prepared and characterized, and their efficacy evaluated.
Nov 01, 2012 | 12:43 PM CDT
Ingredient Profile—Sorbic Acid/Potassium Sorbate
By: Michael J. Fevola, PhD, Johnson & Johnson
SorbH and KSorb have become increasingly popular options for cosmetic preservatives due to their worldwide status as Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) food ingredients and their long and successful use history.
Oct 01, 2012 | 02:37 PM CDT
Inducing Hormesis for a Lipofilling-like Action
By: Carine Bézivin, PhD, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics
The present article discusses a new approach to mimic lipofilling—the activation of hormesis, which is accomplished by the described encapsulated active designed to induce a transitory stress and initiate an overcompensation to reestablish homeostasis. This leads to the compensation of age-induced lipoatrophy and correction of wrinkles and folds, for a younger-looking appearance.
Oct 01, 2012 | 02:29 PM CDT
Clinical Evaluation of a Zinc- and Copper-based Eye Area Anti-aging Complex
By: Virginie Nollent, PharmD; Marion Lanctin; Ale…
A zinc and copper complex generating biomimetic electricity on a physiological level is shown here to improve the signs of photoaging in preclinical and clinical studies. This complex was applied to the eye area to confirm its efficacy as an anti-aging treatment option with good skin tolerance.
Oct 01, 2012 | 02:11 PM CDT
Designing Mild Personal Care Products: A Case Study
By: Paul Cornwell, PhD, and Jeremy Goodwin, PhD, Z…
This article reviews the mechanisms underlying skin irritation and sensitization, and methods used in a case study to test cosmetic products for their potential to cause irritation. It also covers the main skin conditions that can influence susceptibility to irritation, as well as ingredients affecting the mildness of cosmetic products.
Oct 01, 2012 | 02:06 PM CDT
Formula Troubleshooting—Anhydrous Product Instability
By: Peter Tsolis, The Estée Lauder Companies; and …
Many anhydrous products are mixtures of oils, esters, fatty alcohols, waxes, preservatives, fragrances and various pigments. Combining these materials is a complex undertaking, and varying the concentration even slightly changes the dynamics and aesthetics of the final product; in the worst cases, it causes instability.