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New in Formulating (page 3 of 66)
Mar 26, 2013 | 05:54 PM CDT
Structured Surfactant Systems for Deposition of Perfume on Skin and Hair
By: Caroline Mabille, PhD, Rhodia Aubervilliers Re…
To maximize perfume delivery from structured cleansing formulations, the fragrance must be introduced before structuring the formulation into multilamellar vesicles. Structured formulations fragranced in such a way are shown here to improve perfume deposition and duration versus micellar systems, with no negative impact on perfume burst during use.
Mar 26, 2013 | 04:24 PM CDT
Water-soluble Phosphate Polymers in Bar Soap for Controlled Release of Antimicrobial Silver
By: David M. Healy, Giltech Ltd., Ayr, U.K.
This paper presents data on the antimicrobial performance of a silver ion-releasing phosphate polymer incorporated into a bar soap product. Two studies test the speed, efficacy and longevity of the antimicrobial effect, highlighting the potential of these materials for the controlled, sustained release of bioactive metal ions in cosmetic products.
Mar 05, 2013 | 12:32 PM CST
A High Throughput Method to Predict Skin Penetration and Screen Topical Formulations
By: Konstantin Tsinman, PhD, Pion Inc.; Bálint Sin…
This work studies the applicability of a 96-well-based skin-mimetic artificial membrane permeability model to differentiate between topical pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations. Results are compared with data obtained from in vitro Franz cell permeability measurements and reveal the applicability of this method to assess cosmetic formulation permeation and speed the discovery process.
Mar 05, 2013 | 12:21 PM CST
Influence of Skin Diffuse Reflectance on Sun Damage and Ingredient Efficacy Measurements
By: Olga V. Dueva-Koganov, PhD, Artyom Duev and St…
Current in vitro methods to assess photostability and antioxidant activity do not account for the diffuse reflectance of skin. Described here is an in vitro test that addresses this variable, mimics end-use product conditions and models photodamage processes. The approach is employed to determine the efficacy of an antioxidant from the Camellia sinensis (tea) plant.
Mar 05, 2013 | 11:35 AM CST
T-shaped Siloxane Microemulsion for Improved Hair Conditioning and Protection
By: C. Hartung, PhD; U. Kortemeier; U. Westerholt;…
Described here is a T-shaped cationic siloxane incorporated in a microemulsion to provide a high silicone character material with balanced solubility and high hair substantivity. Wet and dry combability and hair feel were evaluated by panelists, while combing force measurements and differential scanning calorimetry measured conditioning and heat protection, respectively. Color washfastness also was tested using a spectrophotometer.
Mar 05, 2013 | 11:02 AM CST
Formula Anatomy Deciphered—Lip Balms
By: Luigi Rigano, PhD, Studio Rigano Industrial Co…
Lip balms or salves constitute a special category of protecting and soothing cosmetics. They are intended to be applied to the lip pseudo-mucosa to relieve the signs and symptoms of skin dryness and chapping. Their function and formulation are described here.
Mar 05, 2013 | 10:31 AM CST
A Dermatological View—Innovations in Hyaluronic Acid
By: Howard I. Maibach, MD, University of Californi…
HA is critically important to dermatologists and to cosmetic scientists, as it maintains the moisture in skin, and loss of accessible HA results in wrinkling and changes associated with aging. Replacement of such HA is the goal of many cosmetic and cosmeceutical techniques and reagents.
Mar 05, 2013 | 10:23 AM CST
Technology Transfer—Silencing RNA for Cosmetic Effects
By: Steven Isaacman, PhD, Nanometics LLC; Michael …
RNA interference (RNAi) is a gene-silencing technique that inhibits gene expression by causing the intracellular degradation of mRNA molecules. Since first reported in 1998, RNAi has sparked a revolution in molecular biology and has been employed in a myriad of biological contexts for the systematic evaluation of gene function.
Feb 01, 2013 | 02:58 PM CST
The Effect of Skin Metabolism on the Absorption of Chemicals
By: Alain Mavon, PhD, and Carine Jacques-Jamin, Ph…
Skin expresses enzymes that can metabolize endogenous molecules but little is known regarding how they impact the delivery of xenobiotics. This review of recent works shows that skin metabolism alters the dermal absorption of lipophilic compounds, which opens new areas of investigation regarding the safety and efficacy of topically applied cosmetics.
Feb 01, 2013 | 02:54 PM CST
Penetration of Cosmetics Into and Through the Stratum Corneum
By: Ada Polla, Alchimie Forever
The penetration routes of substances through the stratum corneum and how these transport pathways function are becoming better understood. Despite this progress, however, the penetration mechanisms of cosmetic formulations remain mysterious. This overview presents current knowledge on the various pathways of penetration, and suggests that even if cosmetic formulations penetrate no deeper than the surface, their efficacy may still be optimal.