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New in Formulating (page 15 of 66)
May 02, 2011 | 01:50 PM CDT
A Review of Nail Polish: The Industrial Cosmetic
By: Frank C. Pagano, PhD, Chanel Inc.
In the present article, nail polish is reviewed for its function as a decorative coating for the nails. In addition, formulation requirements are described to assist nail polish developers in achieving both the desired decorative effects as well as the necessary performance as a coating.
May 02, 2011 | 01:46 PM CDT
Protection of Retinol in Organosilica Microparticles
By: Kim S. Finnie, PhD; and Chris Barbé, PhD, Cera…
In this article, retinol encapsulated in organosilica microparticles (12–14% w/w) having an average particle size of 0.3 micron are shown in a 40-day test period to exhibit enhanced stability to oxidation when compared with similar commercial stabilized retinol products.
May 02, 2011 | 01:41 PM CDT
Phytosphingosine: A Nature-inspired Sphingoid Base with Multiple Skin Benefits
By: Mike Farwick, Evonik-GoldSchmidt; and Anthony …
Phytosphingosine is an important component of ceramides that also exists as a free base in small quantities in the stratum corneum. Recently manufactured biotechnologically, it can act as an antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, epidermal pro-differentiation mediator and an anti-acne compound, as this literature review shows. Through these activities, phytosphingosine is suggested as a skin-identical approach to skin care.
May 02, 2011 | 01:35 PM CDT
Formula Troubleshooting—Preservation
By: Peter Tsolis and Steve Schnittger, The Estée L…
Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine is pleased to add this new “Formula Troubleshooting” column to the regular lineup. Led by column editor Peter Tsolis of The Estée Lauder Companies, it will cover some of the more common formulation challenges and suggest solutions for the benefit of novice formulators and as a refresher for seasoned experts.
May 02, 2011 | 01:29 PM CDT
Ingredient Profile—Polysorbate 20
By: Mike Fevola, Johnson & Johnson
Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate (INCI: Polysorbate 20), is a ubiquitous nonionic surfactant employed in the formulation of countless cosmetic and personal care products.
May 02, 2011 | 01:22 PM CDT
Formula Anatomy Deciphered—Nail Polish
By: Eric. S. Abrutyn, TPC2 Advisors Ltd., Inc.
The fingernail or nail plate is a complex matrix comprising closely packed keratinized epithelial cells or onychocytes—cross-linked cysteine bond matrix proteins containing inorganic elements such as sulfur as well as calcium, sodium, iron, aluminum, copper, etc.
Apr 06, 2011 | 10:49 AM CDT
A Review of Anti-irritants, Part II: Moisturizer, Anti-irritant Efficacy and Overall Interpretation*
By: Howard I. Maibach, MD, and Hongbo Zhai, MD, Un…
his column is the second of a two-part series about anti-irritants. Part I appeared in the March 2011 issue and covered anti-irritants, irritant reaction and barrier cream efficacy. The present column summarizes the efficacy of moisturizers and anti-irritant substances and provides an overall interpretation.
Apr 06, 2011 | 10:43 AM CDT
Formulating for Delivery From Elastomeric Nonwoven Substrates
By: Stacy A. Mundschau, Scott W. Wenzel and Barbar…
When developing moisturizers intended for application via nonwoven substrates, formulators must consider the hydrophobic oils, the affinity of those oils to the substrate, the add-on to the substrate and the stability of the compositions on the substrate. With these considerations, moisturizing formulations were developed and coated onto laminated substrates whose moisturization efficacies were evaluated as described here.
Apr 06, 2011 | 10:40 AM CDT
Nanoemulsions vs. Emulsions in the Delivery of Coenzyme Q10 and Tocopheryl Acetate
By: Thanaporn Amnuaikit, Wiwat Pichayakorn and Pra…
This article compares the ability of mixed emulsifier nanoemulsions and polysorbate 60 emulsions to deliver coenzyme Q10 and tocopheryl acetate into the skin. In vitro skin penetration data shows that in newborn pig skin, nanoemulsions can deliver higher amounts of both actives than emulsions.
Apr 05, 2011 | 05:25 PM CDT
Sodium Laurylglucosides Hydroxypropyl Sulfonate for Sulfate-free Formulations
By: Robert J. Coots, PhD, Colonial Chemical Inc.
The use of sulfonated alkyl polyglucosides (SAPG) to replace lauryl sulfates and lauryl ether sulfates in sulfate-free formulations has previously been discussed. These primary surfactants were created with environmental and human safety in mind. The current paper describes more recent work with this material, specifically focusing on the lauryl version of SAPG.