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Most Recent in Formulating

Sederma Launches Lifting Active from Plant Cell Culture

Mar 2, 2015

At in-cosmetics in Barcelona, Sederma will debut its lifting active for the face and neck.

A One-step Approach for Anti-aging Prevention and Treatment

Mar 1, 2015Philippe Mondon, Emmanuel Doridot, Andre Nada and Olga Gracioso, Sederma

New research suggests curative and preventative approaches to anti-aging in skin care are closer than they appear. Here, the authors investigate a combination of Pal-GHK and Pal-GQPR peptides, which is designed to leverage both approaches in one step. Described are in vitro, ex vivo and clinical studies of its effects on collagen, fibronectin, HA synthesis and tissue repair activity.

Considerations for Phospholipid Emulsifiers

Mar 1, 2015Peter Tsolis, The Estée Lauder Companies; and Nick Huss, Barnet Products Corp.

Phospholipids have become indispensable ingredients in the personal care industry, not only for their primary emulsification function, but also for their delivery, moisturization and anti-irritant benefits. This column reviews the characteristics of phospholipids, addresses potential formulation issues with them, and suggests potential methods to overcome these issues.

Balancing Texture with Electrolyte Resistance for Improved Thickening

Mar 1, 2015Ryosuke Murakami, Yusuke Nishikawa and Yuichiro Morimitsu, Sumitomo Seika Chemicals Co., Ltd.

Described here are two acrylic rheology modifiers for novel thickening properties in formulations. A pre-neutralized carbomer is shown to impart a lighter, smoother texture than traditional carbomer while increasing process flexibility. In addition, a new associative acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer exhibits thickening in high electrolyte media, acts synergistically with surfactants, and facilitates the dispersion of fillers.

Innovation Upgrade

Mar 1, 2015Rachel Grabenhofer, Cosmetics & Toiletries

The cosmetics industry faces upgrading innovation to meet the high expectations of such digi-centric consumers. It’s a good thing cosmetic scientists are consumers, too, and following these tech trends, they’ve helped push the industry ahead in new ways.

Read the Label Online: Palladio High Intensity Herbal Lip Balm

Feb 24, 2015Susan Raffy, Susan Raffy Consulting Inc.

Palladio High Intensity Herbal Lip Balm promises “the ease of a pencil that applies like a balm and wears like a lipstick.” This column will review the ingredient listing for functionality and claims substantiation.

Packaging as an Extension of Formulation

Feb 23, 2015

Mark White of Amway Corp., will explore how packaging can improve, increase or extend the delivery, efficacy and shelf-life of products during his presentation at the Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit. "Aesthetic appeal is not the only reason for given personal care packaging designs—although it certainly helps," he notes.

Improving the Sensory Properties of Lye Hair Relaxers

Feb 20, 2015Hans-Martin Haake, Halid Kader and Karine Kross-Maita, BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH, Düsseldorf, Germany

Previous work found soluble silicates in lye relaxers to impart positive effects. Therefore, a compound based on potassium silicate, alkyl polyglycoside and glycerin was developed to improve the effects of lye relaxers on the mechanical and sensorial properties of hair. This article explores various benefits of this compound using variations of two lye relaxer test formulations.

Mibelle Unveils Alpine Flower Stem Cell Active for Environmental Protection

Feb 18, 2015

At in-cosmetics 2015 in Barcelona, Mibelle Biochemistry will unveil an alpine flower stem cell active designed to protect stem cells from environmental challenges to allow them to regenerate.

Micro Powders Launches Biodegradable PHB Exfoliant

Feb 17, 2015

Micro Powders Inc. commercially launched its biodegradable exfoliant technology.

Shin-Etsu Presents Soft-focus Effect Finding on Silicone Powders

Feb 11, 2015

Shin-Etsu Silicones of America, Inc. presented new "soft-focus" findings on its KSP Series Hybrid Silicone Powders (100, 101, 102, 105, 300, 411, and 441).

Milk Protein for Increased Skin Hydration in Rinse-off Applications

Feb 4, 2015

TRI-K Industries added a milk protein to its NPNF (non-paraben, non-formaldehyde) line that increases skin hydration in rinse-off products.

A Review of Gel Nail Technologies

Jan 29, 2015Frank C. Pagano, PhD, ACT Solutions Corp.

This article reviews the technologies behind gel nails and recent trends in them. The underlying photochemistry of monomers, oligomers and photoinitiators also is discussed, to give the reader a better understanding of the performance and challenges associated with gel nails.

What's Cooking in Color

Jan 29, 2015Rachel Grabenhofer, Cosmetics & Toiletries

This collection of articles is focused on key technical challenges in developing color products; for example, formulating to improve pigment dispersion and shade-matching in lipstick. Research on progressive steps toward comfortable wear and transfer-resistance in makeup is described, as well as improvements in the durability, color and drying time of gel nails.

Bicosome Encapsulates Carotene and Antioxidants for IR/UV Protection

Jan 28, 2015

At in-cosmetics 2015 in Barcelona, Bicosome is launching a complex that boosts the skin's ability to protect against ultraviolet and infrared radiation.

Read the Label Online: bareMinerals Complexion Rescue Tinted Hydrating Gel Cream

Jan 15, 2015Susan Raffy, Susan Raffy Consulting Inc.

BareMinerals launched Complexion Rescue Tinted Hydrating Gel Cream as “The best of a BB, a CC, and a tinted moisturizer...with a 215% increase in skin hydration after just one week. This column will review the ingredient listing for claims substantiation.

Ascorbyl Lactoside: A New Vitamin C Derivative for Effective Skin Whitening

Oct 1, 2014Feng Zan, Luqiu Shi and Hongyu Xue, Nanjing Huashi Chemical Co., Ltd., Nanjing, China

A new vitamin C derivative, ascorbyl lactoside (AsL), was synthesized and characterized for its stability and safety, and evaluated for anti-tyrosinase and melanin reduction effects. The material showed excellent whitening effects and exhibited better stability than ascorbic acid. It also possessed the lowest cytotoxicity, in comparison with ascorbyl glucoside, kojic acid and arbutin.

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Apply Topically: A Guide to Formulating

Apply Topically: A Guide to Formulating

Finally! This book offers practical approach to the formulation chemist’s day-to-day endeavors by: addressing the innumerable challenges facing the chemist both in design and at bench, such as formulating with/for specific properties; offering valuable “tips” to troubleshooting issues regarding ingredient selection and interaction, regulatory concerns that must be addressed early in development, and the extrapolation of preservative systems; exploring the advantages and limitations of raw materials; addressing scale-up and pilot production process and concerns; and much more.Order your copy today.

Coloring the Cosmetic World

Coloring the Cosmetic World book cover

Finally! A practical resource on cosmetic pigments in one book. Edwin B. Faulkner offers a comprehensive look at what goes into selecting colors for decorative cosmetic products. Order your copy today.