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C&T magazine is hosting a new way to identify technologies and solutions for product development! Learn more about the CosmeticsXchange.
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It is time once again to submit nominations for C&T's International Technology Awards. Nominate someone you know.
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Questions about REACH regulation? Ask a regulations expert on our new Q&A site
REACH Round Table
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C&T GREEN Summit presentations are now available. View the speaker page for more information.
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in-cosmetics is right around the corner Find out moreabout C&T magazine's daily coverage of the show!
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May 1, 2008
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To order a copy of an article from this issue, click on "Purchase this article." For customized, large-quantity reprints, or articles not available online, contact FosteReprints.
A DNA Repair Complex to Decrease Erythema and UV-induced CPD Formation (pg 69)
Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Dellacqua Consulting and Kuno Schweikert, Induchem AG
The authors describe how a DNA-repair complex based on amino acids decreases UV-induced DNA damage in reconstituted human skin and reduces related skin inflammation in human volunteers...
Harmonizing Cosmetics Standards: ISO (pg 79)
Jay M. Ansell, Personal Care Products Council
The importance of harmonization continues to grow. Past and present standard-setting work by ISO, such as in microbiology and sun protection, is laying the foundation for future bridges across regulatory gaps...
Using Ultrasound Scanning to Characterize Colloidal Particles (pg 85)
Malcolm Povey, Procter Department of Food Science and Lyn S. Daintree, PhD, Institute of Particle Science & Engineering
Changes in the macroscopic nature of aqueous or colloidal formulations can lead to changes in the odor, appearance or feel of a product. Data presented in this article demonstrates ultrasound scanning to determine formulation shelf life and monitor product quality...
Macroalgae in Nutricosmetics (pg 93)
J.H. Fitton, PhD, and M. Irhimeh, PhD, Marinova
Ingested macroalgae and its extracts can provide antiaging benefits such as inhibition of matrix enzymes, glycation, inflammatory activity and elastin calcification. Here, the authors investigated macroalgal extracts on insulin levels of test subjects to determine whether they could control glucose levels...
Testing Polysilicone-19 for Hair Conditioning and UV Protection Claims (pg 101)
Katie Schaefer
Polysilicone-19, a new cationic siloxane copolymer for rinse-off shampoos and conditioners, is shown here to protect dyed hair against UV fading and damage and to provide a conditioning effect...
Bench & Beyond—Aquaporins: The One-Molecule-at-a-Time Moisturizer (pg 24)
Bud Brewster, Cosmetics & Toiletries
This column describes aquaporins and outlines their 16-year history, with particular interest in an aquaglycero-porin found in human skin. Future columns will highlight the activities of several cosmetic manufacturers and their compositions to “stimulate” that aquaporin as a way to beautify human skin and hair...
In Sight: Triggering Physical Response Via Aroma in Lip Gloss (pg 128)
Katie Schaefer, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine
Lip gloss imparts shine, may add color and occasionally provides moisturization. However, just as the concepts of cosmeceuticals and nutricosmetics have moved into makeup, lip gloss has taken on new roles...
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A Dermatological View—Ethnic Variation in Skin Properties: Quo Vadis?
by Howard I. Maibach, MD, University of California School of Medicine and Sarika Saggar, Albert Einstein College of Medicine
Part I of this piece, published in the April issue of C&T magazine, began an update on the quantity and quality of dermatological knowledge on the skinmetrics of racial differences in skin structure and function. Part II completes this update and offers an interpretation in reference to skin care for different ethnic groups...
Technically Speaking—From Tranexamic Acid on Freckles to Nonanimal Fillers: Patent, Literature Findings
by Charles Fox, Independent Consultant
The following column discusses the latest technological advancements in the fields of hair care, skin care, oral care, sunscreen, color cosmetics and more...
Tech Edge—Molecular Modeling of Skin care Products: Application for the Design of Pepidomimetics
by Jean-Francois Nicolay, PhD, Exsymol S.A.M. and Mindy Goldstein, PhD, Estée Lauder
Molecular modeling has been used in the pharmaceutical industry for years to predict how a new molecule may work based on research conducted with molecules of a similar structure. The cosmetics industry has also begun to use this technology to predict the behavior of new molecules on skin and in skin care applications...
Testing Tactics—REACH and In Vitro Alternatives: Phototoxicity Testing
by Robert Holtz, BioInnovation Laboratories
This is the third column in a continuing discussion regarding the new REACH regulations and their impact on chemical testing. The first appeared in December 2007 and discussed dermal corrosive potential testing; the second, in February 2008, covered dermal irritancy potential testing...
Formulating Focus—Delivering on Time, In Full and On Target: Part I
by Johann Wiechers, PhD, JW Solutions; Jonathan Hadgraft, The School of Pharmacy; Barrie C. Finnin, Vicorian College of Pharmacy and Michael S. Roberts, School of Medicine, University of Queensland
This first article in a two-part series offers practical information for the cosmetic formulator regarding optimization of skin delivery. It was originally written following a discussion on the technical aspects of topical formulations used in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries, with the aim to identify future trends in delivery...
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