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July 1, 2007
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Compass: Skin Buzz (pg 4)
Rachel Chapman, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine
Tuning into the “buzz” of consumer demand for organic products, skin tanning and lightening, sensitive skin formulas and deeply penetrating treatments, C&T magazine offers this collection for your consideration. Nothing is more of a buzzkill on a product launch than consumer rejection...
Self-tanning Based on Stimulation of Melanin Biosynthesis (pg 55)
Daniel Schmid, Esther Belser and Fred Zülli, Mibelle AG Biochemistry
Cosmetic products used for a soft, healthy-looking tan are becoming popular. Commonly used self-tanning ingredients produce Maillard reaction-derived pigments that do not provide protection against UV. A new ingredient is described that confers tanning and protection by stimulation of melanin synthesis...
Skin Whitening via a Dual Biological Pathway (pg 63)
Valérie Basocak, Philippe Moussou, Isabelle Benoit, Anne-Laurie Rodrigues, Gilles Pauly and Andreas Rathjens Laboratoires Sérobiologiques, Cognis
A new commercial compound achieves skin whitening by decreasing melanogenesis in two ways. The dual biological pathway results in a visible reduction of skin pigmentation, which has been proven in a clinical test on Asian skin types...
Organic Cosmetic Standards: A New Formulation Challenge (pg 71)
Tim Kapsner, Aveda Corp.
The popularity of the Ecocert cosmetic standards and the publication of the NSF standards have increased the complexity of the organic cosmetic landscape. This article reviews organic standards in cosmetics and contrasts how to formulate products based on Ecocert vs. NSF standards...
The Syngeristic Anti-irritant Effects of (-)-α-Bisabolol and Ginger (pg 79)
Martina Herrmann, Imke Meyer, Holger Joppe and Gabriele Vielhaber, Symrise GmbH & Co KG
Damaged skin often is associated with increased levels of interleukin-1 (IL-1) and/or prostaglandin E2 (PGE2). In the present study, researchers combined (-)-α-bisabolol, a potent IL-1α inhibitor, with ginger extract, an efficient PGE2 inhibitor. The synergistic anti-irritant efficacy of this mixture was shown in vivo on detergent-induced erythema...
In Sight--Fragrance and Raw Materials: Birds of a Feather (pg 104)
Katie Schaefer, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine
There is more to fragrance formulation than meets the eye—or nose that is. Both raw material and fragrance formulators spend significant time in the lab testing different materials to determine which ingredients, oils, extracts, etc. best meet their formulation and consumer’s needs. And although fragrance and personal care are two different industries, the discovery processes prove similar...
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Tech Edge--It’s Never Too Late: DNA Repair and Photo-aging
by Alan M. Walfield and Daniel B. Yarosh, PhD, AGI Dermatics, Mindy Goldstein, PhD, Estée Lauder
It is shown that the delivery of DNA repair enzymes using liposomes provides protection from DNA damage in vitro and in vivo, reduction in MMP-1 responses as a marker for photo-aging and lessened wrinkling in a clinical trial...
A Dermatological View—Defining Clinically Relevant Fragrance Allergens: The Challenge
by Jurij J. Hostýnek, PhD, and Howard I. Maibach, MD, University of California
This article originally appeared in Exogenous Dermatology on pages 279–285 of volume 2 in 2003 and appears here in a modified version with permission from S. Karger, Basel...
Technically Speaking: Adjustable Sunless Tanning and Other Topics
by Charles Fox, Independent Consultant
The following column discusses innovations surrounding the sunless tanning segment in addition to other topics...
Bench & Beyond: Branching for Mildness with Sulfosuccinates
by Bud Brewster, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine
This column surveys a few US patents that explore the effects of branching in the sulfosuccinate molecule and the extent of sulfosuccinate branching into new personal care applications...
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