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March 1, 2008
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Compass: Seeing Green (pg 6)
Rachel Chapman, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine
Consumers see green as natural and organic products that omit ingredients viewed as being toxic, and that somehow give back to, or are friendly to, the Earth during their manufacture. There’s a lot of room for interpretation in this description, so how can a cosmetic formula be developed to meet a green definition...
Polyquaternium-74: An Advanced Hair Conditioning Polymer (pg 53)
Eric Leroy, Rhodia Research
Polyquaternium-74 is a synthetic high performance conditioning polymer whose flocculation and deposition characteristics enable it to match or outperform traditional conditioning polymers in detangling, overall hair conditioning, shine enhancement and buildup reduction when combined, as shown here, with a submicron dimethicone emulsion. Benefits are noted for 2-in-1 shampoo formulations...
Hair and Amino Acids (pg 61)
Eiko Oshimura, PhD, Ajinomoto Co., Inc.
Amino acids are taken up by hair and assist in improving hair surface hydrophobicity, tensile strength and luster. This article discusses interactions between amino acids and hair...
Greening Personal Care Chemistry (pg 69)
James H. Clark and Louise Summerton, Green Chemistry Centre of Excellence
Multiple economic, legislative and customer pressures are forcing an unprecedented level of change in chemical manufacturing and the design of chemical products. The authors examine the drivers for change and opportunities across the product lifecycle for green and sustainable chemistry including the use of renewable resources, cleaner synthesis methods and greener products...
Natural Preservation from Concepts in Nature (pg 81)
Fernando Ibarra, PhD, Dr. Straetmans GmbH and Christopher H. Johnson, Kinetik Technologies Inc.
Chemical defense mechanisms used in the plant kingdom are the basis of natural antimicrobials with multifunctionality for preservation of cosmetic formulations. Two examples are organic acids and glyceryl monoesters...
Green Formulations: Not All Components Are Equal (pg 91)
A. Cristoni, G. Maramaldi and C. Artaria, Indena SpA
In the consumer’s mind, a natural or green cosmetic is automatically safe; however, the safety, quality and efficacy of botanical ingredients used in formulations need to be carefully assessed. Stability is also an important issue. Current research is directing analyses of final formulations to evaluate not only their cosmetic raw materials, but also their active materials...
In Sight--Special Delivery: Clay Nanotubes for Skin (pg 104)
Katie Schaefer, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine
By 2011, clay nanocomposites are projected to reach 44% of the marketshare—and it is this area that provides opportunities in personal care, as recent research by one manufacturer of naturally occurring nanotubes and other nanomaterials, NaturalNano Inc., has shown; specifically, its halloysite nanocomposites...
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A Dermatological View--Three Decades of Patch Testing: Trends in the North American Populace
by Shawn Nguyen; Thao Dang; Cora MacPherson, PhD; Hilda Maibach; and Howard Maibach, MD, University of California School of Medicine

This report evaluates the trends in the results of patch testing. The patch test reactions were surveyed retrospectively. The results were statistically compared between 1970 and 2002 because appropriate interpretation of the numbers has public health opportunities...
Technically Speaking: Personal Care Technologies Appearing in Recent Scientific and Patent Literature
by Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

The following column discusses the latest technological advancements in the fields of hair care, skin care, oral care, sunscreen, color cosmetics and more...
Bench & Beyond: Presidential Awards for Green Chemistry in Personal Care and Cosmetics
by Bud Brewster, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine
If you think of planet Earth the way you think of the human body, you see how similar they are. Viewed that way, a formulator might easily make the leap from personal care to planetary care. And indeed, some are doing so, especially at the level of controlling pollution...
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