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Feb. 1, 2008

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Compass: The Diamond Issue (pg 6)
Rachel Chapman, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine

This “exciting” issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine aims to quench your formulating fancies with additional features on texture analysis to quantify skin care claims as well as polyalphaolefins to enhance anhydrous stick formulations such as lipsticks. Pucker up—here’s another diamond of an issue...

Research Pathways to Photostable Sunscreens (pg 49)
Craig Bonda, The HallStar Company


This article provides a visual depiction of pathways that UV filters undergo when exposed to solar radiation; such pathways often lead to photo- instability. A fluorescence technique is described that has led the author to identify compounds that preserve photostability in a novel manner­— by quenching the UV filter’s singlet excited state...

Hyperbranched Polyalphaolefins Enhance Anhydrous Stick Formulations (pg 61)
Florence Nicholas and Jeff Brooks, New Phase Technologies


Hyperbranched polyalphaolefins offer distinctive functional and aesthetic properties due to their branch-on-branch configuration. In anhydrous stick formulations containing polyethylene or other crystalline waxes, the addition of hyperbranched polyalphaolefins is shown in this article to lower pour points by as much as 10C, increase gloss, modify structure and improve formula stability...

Texture Analysis to Quantify Skin Care Product Efficacy (pg 69)
Katie Schaefer


Using a texture analyzer to measure the tightness of the skin before and after the application of selected treatments, the authors demonstrate the potential of texture analysis instrumentation in testing the efficacy of skin care products and substantiating skin tightening claims...

A Sunscreen Formulation for Acne-prone Skin (pg 73)
P. Morganti, Mavi Sud Srl; E. Ruocco, University of Naples Federico II; F. Guarneri, University of Messina; A. Cardillo, R&D ISCD; C. Pagliarello, IRCCS; and G. Fabrizi, University of Molise


This article describes the study of a topical sunscreen formulation that contains titanium dioxide and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate for UV protection, and phosphatidylcholine and hydrosoluble azelaic acid for acne control...

In Sight: Packaging Becomes Eco-friendly (pg 88)
Katie Schaefer, Cosmetics & Toiletires

The personal care industry is well on its way to more eco-friendly packaging. Emerging chemicals on the scene only assure the industry that as technology advances, the time it takes for a product to biodegrade will only shorten...





Regulatory Review: Australian Regulations Update
by David Steinberg, Steinberg & Associates

Australia issued its new Cosmetics Standard 2007. The following is a breakdown of products originally considered as therapeutic drugs if they made SPF claims, and that will now be regulated as secondary sunscreens...

Technically Speaking: From Keratin Regulation Through Wet Wipes Emulsion Literature Findings
by Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

The following column discusses the latest technological advancements in the fields of hair care, skin care, oral care, sunscreen, color cosmetics and more...

Testing Tactics: REACH and In vitro Alternatives: Skin Irritation Testing
by Robert Holtz, BioInnovation Laboratories

Welcome back to a continuing discussion regarding the new Registration, Evaluation and Authorization of Chemicals (REACH) regulation and its impact on chemical testing. It is the purpose of this series of articles to provide an overview of these existing validated in vitro methods, as well as new methods that are being considered for validation...

Bench & Beyond: Triggering Controlled Release of Fragrance
by Bud Brewster, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine
This column examines some of the recent patent literature on triggers for controlled release of fragrance and was, itself, triggered by a reading of Andreas Herrmann’s recent review of pro-fragrances in Angewandte Chemie...


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