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Jan. 1, 2008

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Compass: Innovation Through Interaction (pg 6)
R. Chapman, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine

Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine is grounding itself for fast-forward thinking in the New Year with a new mantra: Innovation Through Interaction. This refrain will drive our content to capture the spirit of invention through collaboration...

Grapefruit Extract Cream: Effects on Melanin in Skin (pg 55)
N. Akhtar, Gulfishan, M. Ahmed,The Islaima University of Bahawalpur; N. Rahjha, BZ University; and A. Mahmood, University of Punjab


The current work aimed to formulate a stable w/o emulsion containing grapefruit extract by entrapping the extract in the inner aqueous phase. The final formula was found to have skin-whitening, moisturizing, cleansing and antiwrinkle effects, among others...

Sirtuins: A Breakthrough in Antiaging Research (pg 69)
I. Imbert, C. Dal Farra and N. Domloge, Vincience, ISP Global Skin Research Center


This article reviews the first scientific evidence confirming the presence of sirtuins in the skin, as well as their role in cell survival, senescence and longevity. This vital discovery could lead the way to new and innovative types of antiaging cosmetic ingredients that activate sirtuins...

Tetrapeptide Targets Epidermis Cohesion (pg 75)
G. Pauly, MD; P. Moussou, PhD; J.-L. Contet-Audonneau, MD; C. Jeanmaire, PhD;O. Freis, PhD; M. Sabadotto; L. Danoux; V. Bardey, PhD; I. Benoit; and A. Rathjens, PhD, Cognis France, Division de Laboratoires Sérobiologiques


Most antiaging products claim to act on the dermis; however, the epidermis, a key element of cutaneous aging, is often forgotten. In the present study, researchers selected an acetylated tetrapeptide for its effect on epidermis cohesion, triggered by activity on syndecan-1 and collagen XVII; these effects are confirmed in vivo...

Skin Care Formulary (pg 87)
Katie Schaefer

The skin care formulary is a showcase of personal care formulas submitted to Cosmetic &Toiletries magazine by the industry...

Technically Speaking: From Enzymes to Fragrance Ingredient Testing: A Literature Overview (pg 36)
C. Fox, Independent Consultant


The following column discusses the latest technological advancements in the fields of hair care, skin care, oral care, sunscreen, color cosmetics and more...

In Sight—QOL Testing: Complementing Clinicals (pg 104)
K. Schaefer, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine

Personal care efficacy tests are known to test the physical effects or toxicity of products, often omitting more abstract and possibly equally as important factors such as well-being...

CT January 2008



A Dermatological View: Tandem Irritants With Synergistic, Additive or Quenching Effects on the Skin
by F. Kartono, Western University of Health Sciences and H.I. Maibach, University of California School of Medicine

In this article the results of six published tandem irritation studies are evaluated; possible mechanisms and clinical ramifications, albeit complex, are discussed. The clinical relevance of tandem irritation among cosmetics users and in many occupational settings appears obvious and suggests the need for further studies clarifying its principles and mechanisms...

Formulating Focus: The Influence of Emollients on Skin Penetration
by J.W. Wiechers, PhD, JW Solutions

This column will discuss ways in which ingredients can positively affect the partition coefficient of the active between the formula and the skin. By carefully selecting the emollients used in a formulation, formulators can increase the delivery and clinical efficacy of a formulation without increasing the level of the active ingredient...

Bench & Beyond: Stimulating Sirtuins' Antiaging Appeal
by B. Brewster, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine

Nicotinamide, the amide of niacin or vitamin B3, is used to treat arthritis. It also has demonstrated anti-inflammatory actions that may be of benefit in patients with inflammatory acne vulgaris. Nicotinamide, therefore, would appear to play a positive role in inhibiting inflammation but a negative role in aging. Are there other ways to stimulate sirtuins...


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