This classical cyclomethicone/stearyl alcohol/hydrogenated castor oil formula has some minor additions for claims and skin feel.
| A. | ||
| Aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrex GLY | active | ~17.6% w/w |
| B. | ||
| Cyclopentasiloxane | volatile carrier | 45–55 C |
| C. | ||
| PPG-14 butyl ether | wetting/dispersing agent | 2.5–7.5 |
| D. | ||
| Stearyl alcohol | solidification | 12–18 |
| Hydrogenated castor oil | co-solidification | 2.5–7.5 |
| Myristyl myristate | skin emollient | 1–5 |
| E. | ||
| Fragrance (parfum) | scent | 1–5 |
| Silica dimethyl silylate | viscosity enhancer | 1–2 |
| Zea mays (corn) starch | encapsulant | qs |
| Silica | viscosity enhancer | < 0.25 |
| Chromium hydroxide green (and) Yellow 5 lake | colorant | qs |
Procedure: Disperse A in B. Add C to AB and homogenize to improve active dispersion and uniform particle size. Heat to 70–75°C. Stay below cyclomethicone flash point. Separately heat D to ~ 80–85°C. Cool to ~ 75°C. Add D to ABC and homogenize to ensure creamy, soft-feeling stick. Cool to ~ 55–60°C. Add E to batch. Cool to pour temperature (~ 50–53°C). During pouring, balance the need to cool rapidly with the need to generate the right crystalline matrix. Time also depends on heat transfer capabilities; in the lab, approx. 1–2 hr to achieve < 30°C; Note: One could add enhancers such as alkyl methyl siloxane waxes to increase the cooling rate