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Asia-Pacific Regulatory Update: Toothpaste, TEA, Ingredient Amendments, Labeling, Vietnam’s Overhaul, PFAS and More

This article explores new cosmetic ingredient identifications and adjustments in the Asia-Pacific regions. China, Taiwan, South Korea, Indonesia, Malaysia, Vietnam and New Zealand regulatory changes throughout 2023 and into 2024 are discussed.

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Editor's Note: Beauty Ingenuity

In the spirit of beauty ingenuity, we present this edition celebrating the 2024 C&T Allē Awards, along with concepts to advance skin, scalp and hair health. We also look forward to what lies ahead — submit to the 2025 Allēs today at AlleAwards.com!

XA is known to impart anti-aging benefits by strengthening the skin’s collagen and elastin via the inhibition of collagenase.

Rediscovering Sandalwood: Fatty Acid for Anti-aging, Anti-inflammatory Action

Fatty acids offer benefits to cosmetics including emollient and sensory properties. Here, ximenynic fatty acid, found in plants of the Santalaceae family, is reviewed for its distinct structure and clinically proven anti-inflammatory properties.

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Testing Tactics: Approaches to Measure Scalp Comfort and Care

This article describes examples of test methods beyond standard skin hydration, sebum and TEWL measurements being used help create scalp care products that address conditions such as inflammation, redness, dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis and more.

Despite their significance, fungi have been relatively overlooked in microbiome studies. Shifts in fungal diversity reveal a distinct correlation with the severity of skin conditions, contrasting the patterns observed in bacterial diversity.

How the Fungal Mycobiome Uncovers Insights on Skin Health and Aging

The fungal mycobiome reveals new insights about the skin microbiome, health and aging, as is shown here. This could unlock advanced dermatological insights for the development of innovative skin care products.

After 14 days, M. cochinchinensis extract improved stinging, irritation, itch and discomfort by 67%, 100%, 91% and 100%, respectively.

Holistically Derailing the Sensitive Scalp ‘Rollercoaster’

A Maclura cochinchinensis extract was developed to provide holistic relief for sensitive scalps by derailing multiple interconnected aspects of this “rollercoaster” condition. The active’s efficacy was tested in vitro and in vivo as described here.

Croda's Crodamol GTS (INCI: C10-14 alkyl polypropanediol-3 myristate) vegetable-derived emollient reportedly imparts significant smoothness and shine across multiple hair types.

Croda's Crodamol GTS Vegetable-derived Emollient Delivers Serious Smoothness

At Suppliers' Day 2024, Croda featured the technology in an anti-humidity mango and avocado hair-finishing butter.

The ingredient technology can be used as a co-surfactant to deliver synergistic mildness and cleanse-boosting benefits with no detrimental impact on foam production, per Croda.

Croda Launches Mild NatraFusion SL HA Biosurfactant

The ingredient technology can be used as a co-surfactant to deliver synergistic mildness and cleanse-boosting benefits with no detrimental impact on foam production, per Croda.

In skin and hair care applications, SphingoCare ceramides can reportedly support claims that address issues such as skin aging, scalp well-being, skin soothing, environmental protection, lip care, microbiome balance and hair cuticle repair.

Croda Unveils SphingoCare Biofermented Ceramides

These fatty acids support skin barrier function, protecting skin from dryness and germs, per Croda.

LBB Specialties has entered into an agreement to become Ingredion’s exclusive distribution partner in the United States and Canada for its personal care product portfolio, including Farmal bio-based polymers and Nativacare natural polymers. (Mexico is not encompassed in the agreement.)

LBB Specialties Named Ingredion’s Exclusive US and Canadian Distributor for Beauty & Personal Care

Ingredion’s beauty and personal care portfolio includes water- and oil-absorbent starches that reduce shine and moisture in skin care products.

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J&J Proposes $6.475 B Plan to Settle Ovarian Cancer Talc Claims

The settlement would be paid over 25 years, and per the company, is a better offer than the claimants stand to recover at trial. Indeed, the scientific testimony linking ovarian cancer to J&J's products is being re-reviewed, posing the risk of dismissal.

Givaudan Active Beauty's Illuminyl 388 is an augmented green tea polyphenol (EGCG; epigallocatechin gallate) prebiotic skin brightening active with universal efficacy against skin pigmentation for all skin types.

Pigmentation 2.0: May 2024 Beauty Trend Tracker

With hyperpigmentation concerns on the rise, ingredient suppliers have launched technologies to address issues related to acne, psoriasis and more.

Silvia Galfo was previously the first chief growth officer for the luxe division in the United States.

L’Oréal US Names Silvia Galfo President of L’Oréal Luxe Division

Galfo succeeds Megan Grant who was appointed to the role in May 2019.

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Trending: Cheek Tint Blush, Liquid Mousse Lipstick, Makeup Bags and More

Our Consumer Pulse reports on social media uncover insights in recent web searches related to cosmetics. Trending now are: makeup bags (hers and his); Insight Cosmetics cheek tint blush "pop"; Mars Cosmetics Popstar Liquid mousse lipstick and more.

Clean beauty choices also don't stop after formulating. Knowing a product is ethically packaged in addition to being designed well can also be a decider for consumers.

[poll results] How Often do you Explore Innovative Packaging Options to Complement Your Formulations?

In last week's poll, we noted product trends like clean beauty don't stop with formulas: that packaging can play a role. We asked how often you consider packaging while formulating — here's how you responded.

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Formula Focus: Bouncy Eye Cream

The bouncy moisturizing texture of this formula is designed to impart immediate skin comfort while reducing dark circles and puffiness over time.

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Sabinsa Debuts Babchiol Retinol Alternative, Highlights Naturals and Nutricosmetics at NYSCC

Babchiol (INCI: Bakuchiol), extracted from Psoralea corylifolia, is presented as a retinol alternative that offers the same anti-aging benefits as retinoids but gentler, and without the risk of adverse effects.

Article Download: Feasibility Study of Sago Starch for Perfumed and Cooling Body Powders

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